History
This was the Normal Route for a time. "Although as easy as any of the classic routes on Mt Blanc in good conditions, it is ascended much less frequently. In bad weather it shoud be avoided as the correct line is difficult to locate". First climbed by Charles Fellows, William Hawes with 9 guides: Auguste and Jacques Balmat, J and P Couttet, S Dévouassoud, M Favret, D Folliguet, J Payot and P Simond on 25 July 1827.
Approach
Follow the approach of Grands Mulets Refuge (3,051 m). Then according to Lindsay Griffin in the book "Mont Blanc Massif. Volume I" from Alpine Club 3rd ed, page 56: cross Grand Plateau to the foot of the Corridor, a snowy vallley between the lower Rochers Rouges and Mt Maudit".
Essential Gear
Rope for a team, crampons, axe and winter clothes.
Route Description
Either climb the slope between the lower Rochers Rouges and a small rocky rognon (3,928 m) below (this is quicker, easier to find but more prone to avalanche and has a certain danger from serac fall), or climb between the rognon and Mt Maudit (difficult route-finding through crevassed terrain). Climb the steep narrow slope L of the lower Rochers Rouges -the Mur de la Côte- and continue across a small plateau to the broad snowy ridge leading to the summit. 6-8 hr from the hut.
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Mont Blanc GROUP
