Approach

The notch between Squaretop and Bilko Pinnacle can be achieved from either side. I climbed from the Kaweah basin side so will describe that. Climb talus slopes toward the notch between Squaretop and bilko until you enter the chute leading to the notch. (There may be a bergshrund persent.)Climb on snow (crampons/ice axe may be required) or low class 3 rock to the notch.

Route Description

From the notch climb directly up the exposed SE face. This face is quite steep but has excellant holds. The guides have this as class 4 but is probably closer to 5.2-3. Climb the face until you reach a ledge. Climb up to a chute and ascend the chute to the top of the ridge. This is mostly class 3-4

Essential Gear

Rope, slings, some passive pro. I climbed this solo and found it to be very fun and invigorating however I did rap the face on descent.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.