Approach
Take alpental road to Oberstasse Road. Park at end of road and hike under west face to forested slopes below south buttress. (20 minutes)
Route Description
There are many variations, but the route basically follows the prominent south buttress. From the Oberstrasse Rd hike to the base of the buttress. The first pitch starts up a face that leads to a grassy ledge near a dead tree. 2nd pitch is a short scramble that leads to a large shoulder. From here hike up through the forest to the rock wall. 3rd pitch is somewhat hard to protect ending with a steep chimney. 4th pitch is long, low angle slabs that ends at brush ledge at base of steep wall. 5th pitch is straight up for 15 feet, then a scramble to the base of a gully. From here we simul-climbed 5 pitches up the gully and traversed right to another long gully that leads to the south summit.
Descent is down Cave Ridge to the north and west.
Essential Gear
Ice axes are helpful for the descent in spring or summer. 60 meter rope worked well. No gear larger than 2.5 inches, as rock is very compact with small cracks. Pins wouldn't be a bad idea.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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