The approach is the same as the standard Keyhole route until you come to the boulder field. Instead of going straight across the boulders up to the Keyhole, turn left toward the saddle between Longs and Mt. Lady Washington, the smaller peak in front. The saddle overlooks the right corner of the Diamond and drops several hundred feet straight down on the other side.

Route Description

The route climbs slabs at about a 35-40 degree angle along the top right edge of the Diamond. There is a vertical crack about 3-4 inches wide and west facing corners most of the way up, followed by some class 3 scrambling on ledges to the summit. The crux move is an overhang, about chest high, which you can lunge over and grab into the crack. The rest of the climb (in my opinion) is class 3, no harder than the trough or homestretch on the Keyhole route.

Essential Gear

Not sure, I climbed solo without pro (summer), just a small pack and running shoes. I'd appreciate comments from others who have climbed this.

For descending (which is more usual), you will want to rappel at least over the crux. Roach recommends one 140 ft. or two 70 ft. rappels. There are eyebolts from the old cables (removed in 1973) that can be used as solid belay anchors.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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