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| Klutlan Glacier   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Alaska, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 61.40000°N / 141.73°W Route Type: glacier Time Required: Expedition Difficulty: AK grade 2
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| Page By: dug Created/Edited: Jun 12, 2002 / Jun 13, 2002 Object ID: 156544 Hits: 2699  Loading... Page Score: 86.02% - 1 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Fly in to the 10,000ft. level of the Klutlan glacier.
Route Description
Climb toward a line of seracs at the N end of the glacier and climb up a depression in the glacier just to the S. of the seracs. Be very wary of hidden crevasses. Our party experianced a crevasse fall, a guide was injured in a crevasse fall when we came down, and a guide was killed here recently in a crevasse fall. Follow the glacier taking care to go the safest way to where it is possible to place camp at about 11,700ft. Continue up heading NW over an indistinct ridge and turn more westerly. Climb upslope to where a camp can be dug in about 12,500. From here you will again head NW over another very indistinct ridge aiming for the only rock you can see. Long before you reach the rock again turn more to the W. and follow the most obvious way. Do not head for the mile wide plateau E of Mt. Churchill. Instead contour into the 14,500 ft. saddle from below and to the E.
From the saddle:
Mt. Churchill,
head to the western side of the summit and climb to the ridge S of the summit wherever convenient. Follow the ridge N. toward the summit over a small false summit. Just below the peak is an easy 50 degree ice slope that should present no real difficulty.
Mt. Bona,
Head out across the plateau heading SW aiming for an easy entrance onto the E. ridge. Once on the ridge, easy slopes lead to the summit plateau. Head S. for the summit and great views of University pk.
Essential Gear
Glacier travel and rescue gear, wands are very important. Don't try to rely on just your GPS for this crevasse mine field.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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