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| Normal Route   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Cordillera Real, Bolivia, South America Lat/Lon: 16.39°S / 67.48°W Route Type: Basic snow, glacier climb, some ice Time Required: A few days Difficulty: USA II/PD/50 degrees
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| Page By: El Tigre Valderrama Created/Edited: Jun 15, 2002 / Oct 17, 2005 Object ID: 156566 Hits: 3149 Loading... Page Score: 64.17% - 4 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
The climb via the normal route, Grade II (PD) with some 50 degree ice/snow, start on the Nido de Condores. To get there, limb, from Puente Roto area follow a road next to the mountainside and then aim for the rock ridge that is connected to the summit (Pico Sur), and get on the ridge and follow it until you get to the Nido de Condores (5,450Mts) flat. You may see other camping areas below this point but I recommend you get to the Nido de Condores and start you final assault from here, since the elevation gain from it is about a 1000 meters.
You can use porters or “cholitas” (Native Bolivian women from the country side) from Puente Roto, approximately $8US per porter. Running water may not be available but snow is available there is the possibility of melting it.
Route Description
From Nido de Condores climb the ridge, and be sure to negotiate crevasses carefully. You will approach an ice wall/crevasse or a bergshrund if you let me called like that, which can be somehow crossed on the left side, and then keep going an steep section towards the right.
This step has been reported to be complicated (Sept. 2005). Climbers informed that the bergschrund is now a big overhanging wall. Inform yourself about this part before attemting the mountain, because the combination of altitude and fatigue can be a bog challenge.
You will arrive at a false summit, so now you will have to go toward the right an then follow a ridge toward the south, finally arriving at the Pico Sur.
It took me about 9 hours to climb the route, but I was going slow since I was very out of shape. My partners Gert-Jan Van Wijk and Manoilo Ventura had a lot of pacience with me…Normally is a 5-7 hours climb. The decent is shorter and rather faster (be carefully with the crevasse!) and it takes about 3 hours to Nido de Condores, and from here down the ridge another 2 hours to Puente Roto.
Essential Gear
Basic glacier and snow travel gear: crampons, ice ixe and a picket. One ice screw and rope very recomended.
Also, if the rimaye or bergschrund described for in the Route Description section is verz hard and technical, you may need more screws to pass that feature.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Cordillera Real (Bolivia)
