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| Tizi Ougane Normal   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: High Atlas, Morocco, Africa Route Type: Basic Snow Climb / Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: F
| Route Quality: | | |  | Loading...
| Page By: Diego Sahagún Created/Edited: Jun 22, 2002 / Feb 18, 2009 Object ID: 156598 Hits: 1272  Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachSee "Jebel Toubkal" > "Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud" > "Approach" to get to the base of the climb, refuge Neltner.
Route DescriptionWalk along the valley reaching a flat not far from the hut. Continue in the bed though narrows, surround on the left side some large rock islands on the foot of Bou Ouzzal. Then climb a slope (20º) towards Tizi (col) Ougane (3,750 m). Turn right and climb (30 m distance from the crest) to a nick behind a trident gendarme. Follow the ridge directly towards another projection. Move right and traverse into a short gully wich is climbed with a side rib back to ridge. Follow the ridge and soon move to right to finish on a scree head. Straightahead lead on to the large roof on left side of the ridge. Plod up to join crest at the apparent summit wich is a forepeak. Descend W and reascend across a small gap to reach the top of Ras.
To continue to Timesguida, descend into gap and traverse horizontally below forepeak to a little col (3,968 m). Ascend the other side keeping someone right to a broad ridge hump and move left along it to cairn. 15-20' from Ras.
If you want to ascend first Timesguida, walk along a bast scree or snow roof from Ras' E ridge near its scree head at base of roof, to the col (3,968 m), then as said.
Essential GearIce axe and possibly crampons.
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