From Interstate 5 get off on Cook Road (Exit 232) and drive east to WA 20 (North Cascades Highway) in Sedro Wooley. Drive approximately 50 miles to Marblemount on WA 20 and turn off onto the Cascade River Road. Then drive 21.7 miles to a small turnout at 3,200 feet below the dramatic Northeast Face of Johannesburg Mountain. Then follow an abandoned road 3/4 of a mile beyond the mine, and then climb up open slopes. After several hundred yards of heavily timbered area begin traversing west across four streams over a 1/2 mile area. Continue to switchback up to 5,700 feet to reach Boston Basin. At 5,800 feet to the east behind a small moraine are campsites and an outhouse. There is a second camping area at 6,300 feet.

Route Description

From the point where the trail enters Boston Basin, continue north towards the grassy moraine. Follow the crest of the moraine to the point where it ends at 6,900 feet. Then ascend the western edge of the Quien Sabe Glacier starting at 7,500 feet. Ascend the glacier along its edge below Sharkfin Tower and Boston Peak. There can be crevasse problems on the final steep portion (25-35 degrees) of the glacier. Climb to the col between Boston Peak and Sahale Peak and then proceed along the exposed rock and snow ridge to the summit. Watch out for cornices through mid-season.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe, snow pickets, rope, pulleys, etc.

Miscellaneous Info

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