NE gully

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Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 47.81310°N / 123.2335°W

Route Type: scramble/snow chute

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: class 3-4

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Page By: don frazier

Created/Edited: Aug 4, 2002 / Aug 4, 2002

Object ID: 156758

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Page Score: 76.08% - 1 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

Start from the upper Dungeness trailhead and hike to upper Royal Basin, 8 miles. Once in the upper basin hike SW oversnow and moraines to the base of the snowfield on the W edge of the NE face.

Route Description

Climb the moderately graded snowfield up to where it narrows and passes through a cliff band ( class 3 rock ). Continue up on snow, shortly after the cliff band traverse left on a snow band under cliffs to reach the base of the NE gully. Climb the gully on moderately steep snow. After several hundred feet a 10 ft rock step will be encountered ( class 4 ) Climb the rock and continue up increasingly steep snow. The last 100 ft are extreemly steep and could get icey. Once on the ridge it is a walk-up to the summit.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons are a must for this climb. Early in the season when snow covers the entire route helmets would be optional. Later in the season when rock and dirt are exposed, helmets would be recommended and should be considered a must for any more than a solo attempt. Rockfall is high on the slopes and large parties would kick up a lot of loose rock.

Miscellaneous Info

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