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East Face 

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.58280°N / 105.6681°W

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 2+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Aaron Johnson

Created/Edited: Aug 23, 2002 / Aug 26, 2009

Object ID: 156860

Hits: 2128 

Page Score: 86.01% - 1 Votes 

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Approach

Take the Mt. Evans road from Echo Lake to Summit Lake, a 14 mile drive. You'll be expected to pay a user fee. The pay station is at the beginning of the Mt. Evans road as it leaves the Squaw Pass Road. This is technically an ILLEGAL FEE which you do not have to pay, and if you get a BLUE TICKET for failure to pay, do not worry. The FS has yet to prosecute anyone for failure to pay the fee (because they know it's illegal). Park at Summit Lake. The earlier your start from home, the better your parking spot will be. During the summer, a late arrival might mean a packed parking lot. You'll need to start early anyway, despite the short length, to avoid the afternoon weather show Evans loves to put on.

Route Description

From Summit Lake, hike north along the tourist trail to the saddle between Mt. Warren and Mt. Spaulding to the Chicago Basin overlook. From here, strike west up the Spaulding Ridge. A well worn trail can be followed as it winds its way up through steep terrain, gradually gaining the ridge, or you can pick your way, being careful to step on rocks whenever possible to minimize your impact on the tundra in this heavily used area. Climb over the summit of Mt. Spaulding, then angle south down onto the vast expanse of tundra that eventually leads to the tip of the Sawtooth. Instead of going to the Sawtooth, proceed south toward the Mt. Evans ridge and you will soon be above the end of the Abyss Lake basin. From here, drop down into the valley on Class 2 terrain, steering a course between the base of the Sawtooth's cliffs and the north end of Abyss Lake. This is a drop of 1,000 feet, so if the weather looks questionable, turn around. If you return the same way, you'll need to reclimb this stretch (a good warm up for Holy Cross!). Ascend Bierstadt's east face directly on steep, Class 2+ terrain. This east face approach climbs very quickly, and people are surprised when you seemingly pop out of nowhere on the summit. Return the same route.

A variation would be the Sawtooth Traverse (see some of the summit logs on this page), which would be great fun, but experience with exposed climbing is recommended before attempting. Of course, a loop trip is possible by using this route and the Sawtooth Traverse coming or going. See the map in this route description.

If weather is questionable, a good bail (or climbing) route starts on some Class 2 slopes south of the large snow slope at the west end of Summit Lake basin. A rapid descent and return to the parking lot can be executed using this route. See the map in this route description.

If weather is very cooperative and you're full of energy, on your return, climb the Mt. Evans ridge to the summit of Mt. Evans and return to your car down the Evans summit cone's east face. This is a big day, but it is a shorter alternative than Guanella Pass if you're bagging these 14ers.

Climbing Mt. Bierstadt from Summit lake via the route described round trip is close to a 5 mile day. The hike is entirely above timberline, so do not attempt this trip in questionable weather. Terrain should never get harder than Class 2+. The hardest section is the east face of Bierstadt, which is very steep but is essentially still scrambling among boulders. Utilizing the Sawtooth route increases the difficulty to exposed Class 3. The route could be done in the winter with appropriate winter gear. The Sawtooth Ridge is not recommended for winter without the appropriate winter and technical gear. Avalanche danger in the Abyss Lake area would be considerable in a heavy snow year.

DISTANCE: 5 miles
GAIN: 3122 feet
LOSS: 3129 feet!
The drop to Abyss Lake is 7 feet lower than your starting point!

MILEAGE
1 Mile Spaulding Summit
1.5 Descent to 12,800'
2.0 Begin eas face climb of Mount Bierstadt
2.5 Bierstadt summit
3.3 End Sawooth traverse (if you go that way)
3.8 Descent to Summit Lake via alternate route
4.9 Parking lot

Essential Gear

No special gear is necessary. Standard hiking apparel with layered clothing and gloves. The only water you will encounter is Summit Lake and Abyss Lake, so a filter might be a good idea.

Mount Evans Goat Herd

A large mountain goat herd calls the Mount Evans-Guanella Pass area home. Your chances of encountering members of the herd are pretty good during your visit. Bring your camera! Do not get too close, though, and do not harass the animals. You'll find them very used to human activity and far from camera shy. However, be advised that they are simply after the salt in your urine, and some may be brazen in collecting a sample. Getting too close, particularly to mamas or babies could also invite a defensive attack, so keep your distance and make no sudden moves or sounds.

The goats often linger along the Mount Evans road and the Summit Lake parking area, seeking the salt deposits in the gravel put on the road for traction. Drive by any goats you encounter slowly. Do not feed the goats.

The same precautions apply to Bighorn Sheep.

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