Approach by driving Cascade River Road 23 miles from Marblemount to the Cascade Pass trailhead. Hike 3.7 miles and 1800 feet to Cascade Pass on obnoxiously flat trail. From just below and east of the pass, take a left turn onto the Sahale Arm trail. Follow this 2200 feet sometimes steeply up to a moraine of the diminutive Sahale Glacier where the highest campground in North Cascades National Park is located (7600ft) with rock rings around the campsites and a composting toilet nearby. Note that a permit is required to camp here. These permits must be obtained in person at the Marblemount Ranger Station the day of or the day before your stay. This is a very popular camp, so have a backup in mind.

Route Description

From the glacier camp, ascend up the Sahale Glacier up and right directly toward the summit tower. It is your decision whether or not to rope up here. Most people don't. The glacier is nearly inactive. From the top of the glacier, either directly ascend the steep snowslope directly below the summit or head over to the right (southeast) ridge and climb loose talus or snow through mid season. The summit block itself is most easily climbed by the southwest (left) ridge. This is class 4 with maybe two class 5 moves, and is not very long (~100ft). Most people climb it unroped, although inexperienced climbers will find a rope reassuring.

Descend the same route. There is a rappel sling just below the summit (one 50m rope is enough) but most people won't need it.

Essential Gear

Nothing beyond hiking gear and a staff is NECESSARILY required although at different times (early morning) ice axe and crampons are definetely required. Also for inexperienced climbers, a rope, very small rack (a few slings and a few nuts), a helmet and maybe even rock shoes will be needed.

For most people though, ice axe and crampons are recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images