Arrange a flight to the Kahiltna Glacier from Talkeetna. Ski six and a half miles to the west over a 7,200 foot pass which lies to the south and west of the French Ridge. Descend to the Lacuna Glacier and cross to its west side and travel north over a 7,700 foot pass. There is a broad snow shoulder located here which gives a good view of the route and is a suitable location for a bivy.

Route Description

Drop from bivy site and quickly cross the glacier to the start of the route. Watchout for icefall from seracs to the east (climber's right). Cross the 'shrund to the right of the spur. The base of the route is at approximately 8,000 feet. Then proceed to the left on snow and ice to several pitches of moderate rock.

There are small ledges for a bivy site at approximately 9,500 feet. After this point, moderate to difficult rock (up to 5.9) is encountered followed by mixed terrain. Next the obvious snow/ice rib that forms the central portion of the route is climbed. Fifteen to twenty pitches of up to 55 degrees are climbed to 11,500. A bivy is feasible here. The rib then narrows and a traverse to the left to the "crux mixed gully (85 degrees)." Follow this to another bivy site at 13,500 feet.

Following this traverse to the north for about ten pitches on the west side of the horizontal ridge. Another bivy is possible in the seracs at 15,000 feet. Moderate snow/ice then lead to the south summit , and the true summit shortly thereafter.

Descend by either the Southeast Ridge or the Sultana (Northeast) variation.

Essential Gear

Full set of stoppers, 8 pitons,cams to 3 inches, 2 pickets/deadmen, 8 ice screws, 10 full-length runners, biners, quickdraws, 2 ropes, 2 ice tools per person, small footprint tent, clothing suitable for major Alaskan ascent

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.