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Staniska Scharte Route
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Staniska Scharte Route 

Page Type: Route

Location: Hohe Tauern / Schober Group, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.94480°N / 12.69760°E

Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Difficult, quite exposed walk-up, snow ridge

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 6, 2002 / Jun 17, 2006

Object ID: 157076

Hits: 797 

Page Score: 86.18% - 1 Votes 

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Approach

 
Hochschober Huette and the summit of Hochschober

The ascent starts at Hochschober Huette, 2322m.

Route Description

From Hochschober Huette you go across the meadow towards the North, where the marked path starts ascending. After half an hour you reach on the altitude of 2515m Schoberlake (lake) and bypass it on the left (western) side. The path steepness is constant, you are ascending through a high-mountain valley in a NW and NNW direction. Just below the Staniska Scharte (notch) there is usually a snow field (we had it in August) and you can use it for an equable ascent or you can use the path, which goes over rocks on the right side (secured with steel cables). From the hut to Staniska Scharte you will need 2 hours (600 m).

On Staniska Scharte you turn right (towards the East). You scramble up over the rocky ridge, approaching to the 3185m point. Before reaching it, the path traverses its south slopes. In hard snow or ice it can be tricky, because the traverse is exposed. But in normal conditions there are no problems and you continue by the beautiful snowy summit ridge of Hochschober. On your left you can see the whole North slope, covered with glacier. Soon the ridge becomes steep again. You scramble over rocks, one rock slab can be slippery in snow or ice, so it is again secured by a steel rope, which is unfortunately hanging much towards the right. But soon the ridge becomes harmless again and you reach the summit (in a good one hour from Staniska Scharte).

For a descent the same route is possible, but of course it is much more awarding to use one of other routes, for example the south-east ridge and slope.

Essential Gear

In summer or autumn you will not necessarily need ice-pick or crampons, but it's useful to have them, also for a descent. When slopes are icy or covered by snow, you will need both. So, in good conditions also walking sticks are useful.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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