Ice Lake Basin Map

Route Map to Golden Horn

Route Description

SAN MIGUEL MOUNTAINS/WILSON MASSIF SEEN FROM GOLDEN HORN'S SOUTHWEST RIDGE SADDLE
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

SOUTHWEST RIDGE VIA ICE LAKE BASIN

LOWER TRAILHEAD
DISTANCE: 10.85 miles round trip
GAIN: 3997 feet
The west side of the parking area is the beginning of the Ice Lake Basin trail. This popular trail is a steep climber, switchbacking up through the forest, entering a clearing and then more forest, passing some mining camp ruins along the way, then joining the Clear Lake road alternate trail.

CLEAR LAKE ROAD TRAILHEAD
DISTANCE: 9.54 miles round trip
GAIN: 3493 feet
The trail begins from the first switchbackback in the road and soon crosses a spectacular waterfall before joining up with the lower trail just above some old mining camp ruins.


The two trails merge, head west and switchback up steep slopes into the dramatic and spectacular lower Ice Lake Basin. This place, carpeted in flowers, surrounded by black bastions of cliffs and cascading waterfalls is traversed directly. Good campsites are available through this stretch. Golden Horn and surrounding peaks will be gazing upon you as you cross this magical place.

The trail climbs steep and direct out of lower Ice Lake Basin, angling left (south) along a cascade to gain a slanted bench, then north (right) to gain the eastern edge of the vast upper Ice Lake Basin. From north to south, Ice Lake Basin is nearly 2 miles wide and a mile deep. As you climb higher, the vistas open up and you know you are in a very special place. A side trail cuts back north toward Ice Lake, which is certainly an option, but there are many wonderful paths to choose to explore this massive basin on your way to Golden Horn.

Due to the length of the hike, expediency may be preferred if you're doing a day hike. From Ice Lake, head southwest up a trail bound for Fuller Lake. Just short of the lake, angle right and attain the crest of a tundra covered rib running southwest toward Fuller Peak. Follow this rib into the higher, rocky regions of the basin. A cairned trail may be encountered and it's easy to follow.

Another option is to go up a draw north of the tundra covered rib. This is a boulder and talus hop and snow may be encountered, but distance traversed is slightly reduced. This draw of typical San Juan rolling talus has the feel of another world. Pass a tarn, continuing southwest to the rocky wasteland of a basin situated beneath towering Vermillion Peak.

Another option from the vicinity of Ice Lake is to head more directly south, left of the grassy rib for a brief visit to Fuller Lake. Stay north of this massive alpine body of water, gaining the grassy rib and following it west toward the rocky basin directly below Vermillion Peak. This route is not as steep and expedient, but not much time is lost and you get a brief tour of the south end of this gigantic basin.

From the rocky basin, the 13,380 foot saddle between Vermillion and Golden Horn is your next target. Climb northwest toward this saddle through a rocky expanse, then ascend typical loose San Juan talus and scree through a minor cliff band. Going directly through a break in the cliffs provides Class 4-5 climbing. Just left of the break are some exposed Class 3 options. A cairned pedestrian Class 2 option goes further left up a diagonal route beneath the cliffs, then angles back toward the saddle. Once on the saddle, it's a fun Class 2 or 3 scramble to Golden Horn's unexpected multiple summits. The western perch is the highest, but take time to enjoy scrambling to all of the overlooks. This is a fun and dramatic place.

Return the same route, but if time allows or camp is not far away, take time to go exploring. If you are doing this trip in one day and the weather cooperates, take a little time to visit some lakes during your descent and linger in the basins. Either camping or as a day hike, visiting Golden Horn and Ice Lake Basin is an unforgettable experience.

SEE THE PHOTOS BELOW. THEY ILLUSTRATE THE TERRAIN AND CONDITIONS YOU WILL ENCOUNTER ON THIS CLIMB.

OTHER ROUTE OPTIONS
Colorado's premiere mountain climber, Gerry Roach, has an excellent guidebook available called "Colorado's Thirteeners," that presents other options for climbing in the Ice Lake Basin area.

FELLOW CLIMBERS:
If you have climbed Golden Horn from another approach, such as from the Trout Lake or Hope Lake areas, I encourage you to submit your route and summit posting, and make posts as indicated that can be incorporated into the text. Your contributions are welcome!

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