| Through the Front (West) Window Route |
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| Through the Front (West) Window   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.42550°N / 13.77400°E Route Type: Via Ferrata Season: Summer, Fall Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: difficult ferratta
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| Page By: Vid Pogachnik Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2002 / Aug 12, 2008 Object ID: 157288 Hits: 2533 Loading... Page Score: 86.74% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
You start the tour on Vršič or at Erjavčeva koča (hut) just below it.Route Description
By a marked path (No. 465) you cross a ravine and continue to the foothills of a north wall. To this entrance to the route you can also arrive from Vršič - taking a path to the saddle between Prisojnik and Sovna glava, from where you descend by scree.
The route enters a wall by a narrow vaulted ledge. It soon turns upwards over a steep wall (hooks and pegs), after which it becomes less steep. We follow mark signs to the right and up. In several turns we gain altitude. When the route turns to the left once again we approach a typical vertical barrier.
This vertical wall is cut by a chimney, going up and to the left. The route through it is well secured, the problem is, that the rift turns diagonally and becomes too shallow to have enough place for rucksack on your shoulder. If this place was not secured, it would mean rock climbing of around 5th degree UIAA. So more or less clumsily we move up through (may be even pushing a rucksack before us) and the terrain above becomes more friendly again.
The route is now climbing towards the left over scree and rocky slopes, where early in summer we can have problems with snow (equipment!). Around the corner instead of rocks we suddenly see a piece of sky above us. We find ourselves below a big window - in this cave easily a medium size church should go. The exit through the window goes again over a vertical wall where steel ropes and pegs help us.
How surprised we can be, as the world on the other side of the mountain is so different. Warm, sunny slopes and a broad panorama over mountains above the Trenta Valley.
Exiting the window we continue by the route No. 448 which arrived over the southern slopes. On many places it is still secured with steel ropes, but now we are already used to the altitude. We gain height, the panorama is more and more broad as we approach the summit by the west ridge. From the window we reach the top in 1h 30 min, from Vršič we shall need for the tour approximately 4 hours.Essential GearA small rucksack, good shoes. May be equipment for self-securing on ferratas.
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