0. General: 1906m to 2678m, exposition W, marked, protected rock route.
1. Effort: 775m, 2h,
2. Power: 3 - medium (medium hard ferrata),
3. Psyche: 3 - medium,
4. Orientation: 1 - no difficulties.

Approach

You start the route on Mangart Saddle or at the nearby hut (1940m).

Mangart from the West, from Mangart Saddle. The Slovenian Route uses a well seen cut, which goes up from bottom left to the summit ridge on the upper right.

Route Description

Over grassy slopes on the saddle and to the rocks of Rateshki Mali Mangart (2259m). Then right over a few rocks to a saddle east of this peak. Now all the broad north horizons open and deep below we can see the blue eyes of Mangart Lakes. Mangart north wall is completely vertical here and the Via Ferratta, which climbs over it, looks really neck-breaking.

But our route leads us gently up to the crossroads, where to the left Italian Route goes and to the right Slovenian Route. Over scree we reach the foothills of Mangart west walls where a deep mountain ravine starts. At the very beginning steel ropes and pegs help us and so it is all the way up. The ravine leads us steeply up to the right to a small notch in a SW ridge. There the route turns left, climbs over rocks and higher we get the more it becomes obvious that we are reaching one of the most prominent panoramic peaks of Julian Alps.

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From the hut 1 h 45 min. Not for dizzy mountaineers. Because there is usually a lot of "traffic" take care on falling stones.

Essential Gear

Good shoes, also helmet is useful.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images