Northeast Ridge from the desert floor

Route

Northeast Ridge from the desert floor

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.56170°N / 118.224°W

Route Type: Technical alpine scramble

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: V. 5.6 If you rope up

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Page By: asmrz

Created/Edited: Nov 16, 2002 / Jul 29, 2008

Object ID: 157354

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Table of Contents

Approach

This route climbs the long Northeast Ridge of Lone Pine Peak from the desert floor at 6,000'. The NE Ridge, is the Central of the three impressive ridges coming down from the summit toward the town of Lone Pine. From the town, make a left turn on the town's only light and follow the Whitney Portal Road. Make a left turn onto dirt road named "Olivas Ranch Road". Where the road splits, take the right hand road. Just before you reach the dwelling's gate, another dirt road branches right and slightly up hill. Drive up the road as far as possible. The NE Ridge is the right hand skyline above you.

Route Description

Hike up toward the ridge. Get on the ridge and follow it all the way to the summit. The ridge is over 6,900' high and over three miles long. Climb the first tower mostly on the North Side and the second tower on the South Side. The exit gully follows the "RIGHT" side of the upper NE Ridge.

This route was first climbed by Phil Warrender and Gary Valle over two days in July 1982.

But in the summer, some might scramble up the ridge, unroped. Several strong parties have reported times of 11-14 hours climbing the ridge this way. If you have to rope up, this beautiful, classic arete will become an ENDLESS grade V (overnight trip).

In 1994, Alois Smrz and Rich Henke climbed the ridge in winter. It took the FWA party three days in full winter conditions to climb the route and return to the desert floor.

SP members Scotty Nelson (poorboy44) and Nate Ricklin (glahhg) completed what might be the 2nd winter ascent of this massive ridge in early March of 2008, some 14 years later. They also took three days. Nate reported that they climbed a more technical variation(approx. 5.7 over rock) to exit the upper ridge onto the summit plateau. This variation could actually make the exit safer when the exit couloir is snow loaded and avalanche prone.

05/08/2008- Nate Ricklin advised the following regarding the upper ridge exit:

"From the notch at the top of the Northeast ridge, climb straight up the headwall, loosely following a 12 inch wide dike from the bottom to halfway up the headwall. Where the dike veers left, go straight up, aiming for the left side of some big-looking overhangs. Pull the final overhang at a splitter finger-size crack. About 2.5 pitches, 5.7."

Descend via the regular East Ledges Route. Walk the North Tuttle Creek dirt road back to your car (3 miles of desert hiking).

Recommended for those, who like to suffer. Great (and long) alpine route!

Essential Gear

Gear for summer roped ascent: 4 medium Hexes, Set of wires, slings, harness, rock shoes, helmet, thin 50m rope, water, food, bivi gear.

Winter ascent gear: 50 m rope, Set of Wires, 4 medium Hexes, 2 larger SLCDs (equiv. to #3 and #3 1/2 Friends), slings, one short ice axe and one ice hammer (for the party), good leather (or plastic) boots, gaiters, crampons, gloves plus extra pair, small stove and pot, water bottle, Goretex Bag (-5F), pad, no cook food for 3 days, clothing, harness, helmet. Try to go as light as possible, less than 25lbs each.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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