| Hermit Spire, "Jazzing" Route |
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| Hermit Spire, "Jazzing"   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.10920°N / 118.484°W Route Type: Technical Backcountry rock climb Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: III, 5.10A
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| Page By: asmrz Created/Edited: Nov 16, 2002 / Jan 3, 2003 Object ID: 157356 Hits: 1192 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
About one -quarter mile north of Quaking Aspen Campground and two miles north of Ponderosa Lodge on HWY 190, turn right (north) onto paved Forest Road 21S50 at the sign reading Golden Trout Wilderness Pack Station; Lewis Camp Trailhead. At 4.6 miles the pavement ends. Turn right on the road to Lewis Camp, Pack Station. The pack station is 2.5 miles down road 20S79. About one-quarter mile past the pack station, turn right on road 20S79B. Follow this to near it's end (.7 mi.) at the crest of the ridge coming down from the Hermit Spire. Walk east to the crest of the ridge. It takes about 30 minutes to reach Hermit from there.
For the climbs on the SW side of the dome, drop 500 feet from the ridge until it is possible to traverse left to the base of the spire/dome.
Route Description
Descend the west side of the formation to the lowest point of the spire. Move left about 15 feet. Above is a huge buttress with chimney-like gullies on each side. Jazzing is about 50 feet left of a Pitch and Nine takes time. A six-foot pine tree (in 1988) growing out of the rock marks the start of the route. Face climb to a flake 40 feet up, move up and right, reach hidden four inch crack, climb it to a ledge (5.8). Climb a finger crack on the right edge of the buttress (10A/B), move into the right-facing dihedral, climb to its top (5.8). Move left into the large dihedral and climb it(5.7). The next four pitches go slightly left and climb steep, knobby face (5.7 to 5.5.) to the summit block. 8 long pitches. The route was first climbed by Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz in July of 1988. For futher information please see pages 24 to 47 of 1992 Greg Vernon/Sally Moser/Patrick Paul GUIDE to (Southern Sierra Rock Climbing) NEEDLES. I would be happy to provide any details you might need. Email me.
Essential Gear
Set of wires, Set of SLCDs (we carried Friends), slings, 50 m rope
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Southern Sierra
