From Seattle take I-5 North to Exit 194. Follow Highway 2 East for 2.3 miles, stay in left lane, go to Lake Stevens Highway 204 East, in 2.2 miles take left (north) on Highway 9 to Lake Stevens, in 1.7 miles take right (east) on Highway 92 to Granite Falls, in 8.4 miles turn left (north) to Mountain Loop Highway. Follow for about 30 miles to the Sunrise Mine Road on the right. Road dead ends in about 1 mile where parking is limited to one side of the road. Leave room for others to turn around.

Route Description

There are a number of variations that one can take, from the dihedral formed by the summit pyramid to any number of lines up the slab. I will describe the route I climbed that roughly climbs the center of the slab.

From the glacier below the North Face pick the best looking gully that leads to the heather bench. Cross the moat in late season, and climb up to three pitches steeply up the chimney/gulley system. Mid 5th class.

Scramble up the heather bench a few hundred vertical feet to the very clean slab. Pick a line of weakness and follow your nose, keeping an eye out for belay stances. We typically found only one or two gear placements per 60 meter pitch, but found reasonable stances with gear for belays. About four pitches to the top of the slab. Scramble east to the top of the summit pyramid.

Descent. Hike down slabs to the south to rejoin the trail.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, helmet, 60 meter rope, rock shoes.

Rack: HB Offsets or similar nuts, complete set. Very small cams, ie Aliens or Wild Country Zeros, 8 shoulder length slings.

Miscellaneous Info

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