Start at the Lupine meadows trailhead, as for Exum ridge. Follow the excellent tril up Garnet Canyon, through the morain to the head wall below the Lower Saddle camp. Climb the head wall via a fixed rope or up steep snow to climber's left. From the Lower Saddle hike climber's left.

Route Description

This route has been referred to as the baby sister of the Black Ice Couloir and is a fine route in its own right. It involves moderate rock and ice climbing in an outrageous setting. The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.

Climb the steeping ridge, bypassing the large gendarmes, first on the left, then on the right. Difficulty to 5.6. Head right into the broad gulley, above a vertical cliff on loose, sloping ledges. Establish a belay then climb 4 60 meter pitches of snow/ice to 70 degrees (at the steepest). Pull the cornice then scramble left to the summit.

Descend the Middle Teton Glacier route making rappels down a rock chimney. Expect steep snow downclimbing to 45 degrees.

Essential Gear

Hemet, rope, 4-5 ice screws, 2 pickets, 6-8 slings, carabiners, crampons, two ice tools, small rock rack including 6 nuts and cams from .5" to 1". Pitons may be usefull as well.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images