A good approach description can be found in Nelson and Potterfields, Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol II, NY Gully Route. Drive I-90 to Exit 52 and go north. Park in the Alpental Ski area parking lot. Hike up the Snow Lake Trail past the Apental water falls to an open slope about 1/2 up the trail. Hike up the slope and gain the ridge. Follow the ridge north until able to drop into the basin below the north face. Find a prominent snow gulley on the right hand side of the face.

Route Description

This is a route best done in winter when the loose rock is well iced. It is a shorter and easier alternative to the better known NY Gullies route. Climb the obvious gulley, to 40 degrees, until able to make a rising leftward traverse onto rocky, easy ground. Follow easy, mixed gully systems until a clean dihedral is reached. Climb the dihedral exiting via a steep snow headwall. Scramble east to the summit.

Descend west to the Alpental parking lot.

Essential Gear

Helmet, rope, 2-3 ice screws, light rock rack, 6 nuts, 4 cams to 1", slings, crampons, two ice tools.

Miscellaneous Info

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