Drive Hwy 20 and park 1/4 mile west of the Blue Lake trailhead. Hike up slopes toward Cutthroat peak and contour to the east face aiming for the couloir that splits the face.

Route Description

This is an ice route, and is only feasible early in the season. Go as soon as the North Cascades Highway opens. Beware of warm temps as it is avalanche prone.

Climb the couloir a couple hundred feet to where it pinches down. Belay here and climb the waterfall on the right hand side for 2 pitches until able to exit onto lower angled snow slopes. This section is the crux, it offers very steep, thin climbing. Climb snow snow slopes several hundred feet to the summit.

Descent: Rappel the south buttress via fixed anchors.

Essential Gear

Helmet, two ice tools, crampons, 4-6 ice screws including stubbies, 2-3 KBs/Bugaboos, angles #1-3, 6 nuts, 4 cams to 1", 8-10 slings, 60 meter rope.

Miscellaneous Info

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