0. General: From 1502m to 2753m, exposition S and E, marked rock route, protected on many places with steel ropes and pegs.
1. Effort: 1250m, 3h 30min,
2. Power: 3 - medium (easy climbing, medium hard ferrata),
3. Psyche: 3 - medium (Pipan's ladder is 60m high and almost vertical),
4. Orientation: 1 - no difficulties.

Approach

You approach the Rif. Brazza (1660 m) by a mountain road from Sella di Nevea. The parking place is just below the hut.

(See the main page of Montaz).

Route Description

From the hut you follow the marked trail over alpine meadows towards north-west. The foot of rock walls looks near, but the magnitude of Altipiano del Montasio makes an illusion. For 550 m of altitude you will need a bit less than 2 hours to reach Forca del Disteis, 2201 m (notch), where the crest from Monte Cimone is attached to the Montaz massif. For the south approach you don't need to ascend just up to the notch, but because of a beautiful panorama it's worth doing it.

Over the scree the route enters the south wall. First we climb a few rock passages (easy, protected), pass the statue-like rock, and continue over many scree bands allways up towards right. Half way to the main (E) ridge from the right Sentiero ferrata Leva arrives.

Here we turn left, climb again a rocky step and reach the small rubble field (steep!) below the final rock step to the ridge. To the right there is Vrh Brda (2661 m).

From here the route has two possibilities. The old route climbs right over green terraces on the main ridge (below Vrh Brda) and from there it follows the east ridge above the window in the ridge. This easy rock scramble is the most beautiful part of our ascent. The panorama is immense!

The other possibility (more appropriate for the ascent) goes more directly and uses a vertical, 60 meters high steel ladder (Pipan's ladder). So it reaches the main (east) ridge where it joins the first variant.

From here the route follows the summit ridge to the top (easy climbing).

From Rif. Brazza to the top you will need cca 3 h 30 min (1100 meters).

Essential Gear

Good shoes. Pipan's ladder is not to recommend if you have dizziness problems (here you can use equipment for self assuring). Take care of falling rocks and use a helmet accordingly!

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images