This is the most popular route to Capitol Peak, so expect plenty of company on a weekend. The well worn and wide trail drops down into Capitol Creek valley. A better alternative is the Capitol Ditch trail (see special section below). Hike down this stretch 400 feet to the valley floor, passing through clearings littered with cow pies. You will soon need to make a crossing of Capitol Creek. Some long and bouncy logs may be in place. Crossing these with a full pack over the deep and calm waters of the creek takes some graceful balancing, so proceed carefully. The Colorado Fourteener Initiative group has worked in the area and a decent crossing may now be in place.

After the crossing, follow the sustained trail another 5.5 miles to just below Capitol Lake. This is a seemingly long haul, but you are compensated with gorgeous aspen forests, beaver dams and spectacular scenery.

Just below Capitol Lake you will find some good designated camping sites just off of the trail, or on the knolls just north of the lake. The mountain will be staring down upon you.

Capitol Ditch Approach

A better alternative follows an irrigation ditch, which is contours up the valley southwest. Go to the west end of the parking area and follow the trail as it contours up the valley. The trail breaks off from the ditch at about 1 mile, contours south and intersects the Capitol Creek trail at 10,000 feet. You join the Capitol Creek trail on the east side of a clearing at mile 3.1, where a tricky crossing of Capitol Creek over a narrow log is required.

The nice thing about this route is there is little undulation to this point, and it bypasses the 400 foot drop in altitude at the trailhead. The unpleasant thing about both trails is that this is a multiple use area and open grazing means plenty of cowpies, and most of the route smells like a gigantic corral. Mileage is roughly the same for both routes.

The Climb

SP member Vern Garner (saintgrizzly) ascends to the K2/Daly saddle, Capitol Peak towers behind. Fall, 1993.
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Follow the CFI reinforced trail east up the steep slope from Capitol Lake. This steep slope makes an immediate impression that you are about to undertake a serious proposition. Once at the 12,500� saddle, descend south, traversing into the basin southwest and above Moon Lake. The trail choices lead to an inevitable loose gully which must be crossed. A drop to lower terrain can bypass this gully on your ascent or return, but at a price of elevation loss. Higher choices lead up the Class 4 ridge toward K2,which can be a time consuming poposition and delay your progress. In the basin, this route joins up with the route coming from Snowmass Creek. Your route arcs gradually toward the west as you climb up this basin, a great wasteland of gray rock. If you are lucky and snow is present, climbing up this basin will be easier and much more direct. Several rock towers will present themselves during this climb, but they are not K2. Continue to follow the basin as it arcs west. Point 13,664, known as K2 will gradually become visible, appearing as an inconspicuous bump in a sea of rock. Aim for its left (south) side.

Ascending K2 (left) and arriving on the NE ridge (right).
Photos by Ellen Ritt (mtnhiker13)

As you approach K2, the mountain you seek will also come into view. As you contemplate your future, do not lose sight of the first of many obstacles you must overcome. For many, K2 is the crux of this climb. Past accounts about going around K2 are sketchy at best, and thus is not recommended here. Going over K2, as described below, is challenging enough.

Climb K2�s south side carefully. Exposure suddenly yawns with massive immediacy below you. Be mindful of foot and hand placements. Ledges and holds are plentiful, but loose rock is everywhere. Stay focused until you reach the tiny top of K2. Descend the north side of K2 very carefully. Loose rock is present on this north face, which may have snow or ice on it into July. Be watchful for clues of routes taken by those that have gone before, but trust nothing but your own informed judgment concerning foot and hand placements. Options on solid rock are available and pleasant, but the climbing is on steep and exposed Class 4 terrain. Drop about the same amount of footage climbed on K2�s south side, about 70 feet. Continue west onto Capitol�s infamous northeast ridge.

Fun scrambling over many obstacles follows. Pinnacles, rock clusters, cracks and flakes will offer a wide variety of scrambling choices. No altitude is gained while you are on the northeast ridge. Be constantly aware of everything you do. Stay focused on every foot and handhold and every maneuver. Pause, get a good hold and THEN look around. From K2 on, the exposure while climbing Capitol Peak is intense and sustained.

SP member Ellen Ritt (mtnhiker13) on Capitol's Knife Edge (NE ridge) route.
Photo by Aaron Johnson

The rock gets more solid, and by the time you reach the legendary Knife Edge, you�ll be on the most solid spot on the mountain. Crossing the Knife Edge is a joy. The rock is solid, albeit the north side is smooth and sheer. Some folks scoot across the Knife Edge. Be warned-they call it the Knife Edge for a reason. The ridge is SHARP and your crotch will let you know it. Others prefer to cross the Knife Edge placing footholds on the south side and using the ridge as a rail. Both techniques work well. Try both to see which suits you best. Stay focused on your every move.

Exposed scrambling on the summit cone's SE flanks. More exciting moves still wait between you and the top!
Photo by Ellen Ritt (mtnhiker13)

Beyond the Knife Edge, more scrambling follows, including an airy spot through a notch. As you scramble out onto Capitol�s complex east face, the rock gets loose. Cairns keep you south of the northeast ridge as you do an ascending traverse through much loose territory and steep slopes. Test all holds through this section and do not dislodge any rocks. Whenever possible, go from cairn to cairn over solid rock and avoid the rubble and possible rockfall incidents. Following cairns and worn areas across the east face, you'll arrive at an interesting series of rubble covered ledges less than a foot wide. Traverse these ledges carefully, for there is much loose material, but hand holds are also plentiful. Climb up along a gully to a ledge perched on Capitol�s precipitous southeast ridge. Bare your backside to the great nothingness and climb straight up the corner of this ridge about 50 feet, then gingerly contour out onto Capitol�s south face. A "pedestrian" route gos to the left and variations are evident. Climbing the ridge directly to the summit goes very well on solid rock, but exposure would be considered massive by many. The south face is littered in loose rock, so proceed carefully, gaining altitude when you can. Another ten minutes puts you on top.

Return & Maps

From the summit, a pedestrian route is evident that takes you back to the ridgeline above the corner climb. This route is slightly faster than returning along the ridge.

Below the corner, you're back on the mountain's east face. Return the same route you climbed as EXACTLY as you can possibly manage. Try not to stray into unfamiliar territory and a likely unpleasant situation. While extremely exposed, most of the route is bountiful with holds of all kinds.

Traverse the east face with gingerly caution. Once back on the ridge, you�ll make better progress due to the solid rock.

Climb back over K2 efficiently, do not tarry as you climb the north face. If retracing your route doesn't look appealing, look for options on solid but steep rock, which abound on the north face. Climbing up a line to K2's north rib goes well. Once on this rib, a use trail that contours K2 is seen*, but ignore it and climb directly to your right up solid but steep rock to K2's summit (Class 4). Descend K2�s south face as you would a ladder, making every move deliberate and steady. Once off of K2, the difficulties and tremendous exposure will end. Now, all you have to do is retrace your many steps back to camp.

Your return to your car is where your admission price is paid, when you are the most fatigued! If returning via the Capitol Creek trail, re-climb the 400 feet to your vehicle. The Capitol Ditch trail is the better return alternative, although the admission price of a tricky stream crossing is necessary. A sign is posted along the trail indicating this alternative route.

ROUND TRIP MILEAGE: 17 mles
GAIN: 5,800 feet

*The contouring route around K2 is not recommended due to reports of loose and questionable conditions. A recent survey of the route by the author confirms these conditions.

Essential Gear

4WD vehicle, Capitol Peak 7.5 minute topo map for orientation purposes, standard day hike gear, flashlight or headlamp. Gloves are a good idea for cold conditions and for hand warming. Ice axe and crampons are recommended for snow conditions. Rope and rack may be a wise precaution for less experienced folks or inclement weather conditions. See WHO AND WHEN TO CLIMB section.

Who Should & When to Climb

SPRING: Dodging the spring storms, good time can be made on snow fields that have settled and become solid. Great time can be made up the basin toward K2 on the massive snowfield that will likely be present after a good winter. Because of ice probability, winter gear and rope and rack is recommended from K2 on.

SUMMER: A good time to climb Capitol, but this mountain is the ultimate nightmare in bad weather. An early start from Capitol Lake is mandatory. There is no retreat or bail route from the mountain from K2 on. Climb fast and efficiently to beat the weather.

FALL: A good time to climb Capitol, but start early to avoid sudden fall storms that can glaze the mountain in thin sheets of snow and ice, making the route instantly treacherous. Rope and rack in these conditions, if sustained, is a good idea. If the weather is iffy in the fall, it�s best to have it along in case the mountain gets glazed.

WINTER: Not recommended, although many have climbed Capitol successfully in the winter. Only experienced mountaineers in excellent physical condition should attempt this mountain in winter. Capitol Peak�s routine in any given year includes the death of several climbers. An example: An April ascent in 1994 was successful, but a storm blew in, forcing a bivy on the summit. The storm was loaded with lightning, killing the leader of a three man party. Two young but (thankfully) experienced climbers had to climb down on their own and leave their teacher companion�s body on the summit for two months until it could be retrieved.

NOTE: While rope and rack is recommended in certain situations, it should not be used on this mountain if at all possible to avoid rope drag and snags that could dislodge loose rocks. In many instances, rope and rack could compound the dangers, particularly on a busy day. You're better off attempting this mountain with good climbing skills and a healthy dose of confidence.

WHO SHOULD CLIMB CAPITOL
Capitol is considered by many to be the finishing school of Colorado�s Fourteeners. The other Elk Range Fourteeners can also make this claim, however, among those peaks, Capitol is the mountain that features constant, sustained climbing in constant, sustained exposure that can only be described as awesome. Capitol is often found toward the end of an experienced climber�s list of summits to conquer.

It is strongly recommended that only experienced climbers that have been on a considerable amount of mountains in a wide variety of conditions attempt Capitol. These climbers should have much experience on all types of rock in all types of situations. They should be familiar with hand and foothold possibilities and know how to use such features including dihedrals, corners, cracks, knobs, flakes and horns. A basic rope climbing class is a great idea, and opportunities to practice in the field are recommended. In good weather, a rope will likely go unused. In questionable weather, it�s good to have in a pinch.

Climbers should be in optimal physical condition, a very important prerequisite in assuring success on Capitol. There�s not much opportunity to rest while on the mountain. Coming off the mountain in a serious storm or darkness would be a climber�s worst nightmare. Be prepared and make efficient progress accordingly.

The route may be crowded on weekends and safety could be compromised. Proceed carefully past slower climbers and let faster climbers by ONLY in locations safe to do so. K2, the Knife Edge and the main summit pyramid are lousy places for crowds to gather. The designated camp sites may be full on weekends. Try to climb the mountain during the week if at all possible.

Please, for the safety of everyone, do not bring a beginner on the mountain and do not attempt Capitol without the appropriate experience. Do not count on rope and rack to safely or successfully deliver an inexperienced climber up (or down) Capitol.

Are You Experienced?

Good places to get experience in rock climbing, scrambling and exposure in Colorado are: Mt. Spaulding and Mt. Evans (Class 2), Sawtooth Traverse (Class 3), Kelso Ridge (Class 3), Longs Peak, Loft or Keyhole (Class 3), Mt. Richtofen (Class 3), The Citadel (Class 3), Mt. Sneffles (Class 3), Wetterhorn (Class 3), Quandary Peak�s West Ridge (Class 3), Wilson Peak�s Southwest Ridge (Class 3) and the Arapaho Peaks Traverse (Class 3).

Some Colorado Class 4 Climbs:
Navajo Peak, Mt. Wilson, El Diente, North Maroon, South Maroon, Pyramid, Sunlight
These mountains do not have the sustained climbing and exposure of Capitol, but are every bit as dangerous!

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