| Traverse of the Arnspitzstock Route |
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| Traverse of the Arnspitzstock   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Bavaria / Tyrol, Austria/Germany, Europe Route Type: Scramble/Easy Rock Climb Time Required: A long day Difficulty: UIAA II
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| Page By: tiefenthaler Created/Edited: May 9, 2003 / Oct 10, 2005 Object ID: 158032 Hits: 680 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Start: Scharnitz (Porta Claudia) or Leutasch (near "Schanz")
Route Description
This is an attractive route for experienced climbers capable of moving safely and rapidly in alpine terrain (loose rock, unprotected climbing up to UIAA grade II, exposed passages, orientation: traverse is not marked, times: for climbing unroped).
The Arnspitzstock has 3 major peaks: Grosse Arnspitze (2196 m), Mittlere Arnspitze (2130 m), and Arnplattenspitze (2172 m). Description for traverse is from east to west (Grosse Arnspitze to Arnplattenspitze), reverse direction is also possible.
Get up Grosse Arnspitze: Start in Scharnitz at the Porta Claudia and climb the Grosse Arnspitze via Hasellähne (3-4 h).
Alternatively, and probably better (October 2005): the trail via the Hasellähne seems to be in bad repair, so start in Leutasch (near "Schanz") to climb the Grosse Arnspitze via the Riedbergscharte.
Traverse: From the Grosse Arnpitze climb down towards the Mittlere Arnspitze over some rocks to reach the saddle between the Grosse and Mittlere Arnpitze. Now follow the ridge to the base of the Mittlere Arnpitze.
Traverse left using a small ledge to reach a terrace (ca. 20 m, UIAA II, exposed, good handholds). From the terrace gain the ridge and from there the summit of the Mittlere Arnspitze (1h).
From the summit of the Mittlere Arnspitze climb down south to the ridge and then gain the small summit west of the Mittlere Arnspitze via a small natural rock-bridge. Climb down the ridge and later steep rocks to reach the saddle between Mittlere Arnspitze and Arnplattenspitze (UIAA II, exposed, 30 min). From the saddle hike to the base of the north-east ridge of the Arnplattenspitze through dwarf-pines. Use the ridge (dwarf-pines in the lower half) until you reach a small ledge at the base of the summit. Use a small, grassy ledge, from right to left, to gain a groove which is followed to the summit (UIAA II, 45 min).
Back to Scharnitz: From the summit of the Arnplattenspitze climb down W and follow the green ridge until a trail leaves the ridge down left (south) leading to the Hoher Sattel. There, turn left and follow the trail through the Sattelklamm back to Scharnitz (2-3h).
Back to Leutasch: don't leave the ridge but follow it all the way back to the Leutasch valley which you reach in "Ahrn". From there it is ca. 6 km back to the start.
Essential Gear
Good hiking shoes. This is certainly not a running-shoe terrain. Protection with rope might be difficult (no anchors)
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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