Dreamweaver is one of the Best Moderate Classic alpine climbs in the US. The climb has a very short season of a few weeks in late spring/early summer. There also may be a short season in late fall. All this changes from one season to the next depending on snow conditions. The setting is a basin formed by Mt. Meeker and Long's Peak that host the widest range of technical climbs in the area. Dreamweaver consist of a long approch and over 1500 feet of technical mixed climbing on a high peak. Do not underestimate the time it takes to do this route as even the descent can take a large portion of the time. Get an early start, around 3AM is typical, that will put you at the base of the climb at first light.

The approach to the climb starts at the Long's Peak Trailhead in Rocky Mountain National Park outside of Estes Park, Colorado. From the TH follow the Long's Peak Trail to Chasm Lake below the Diamond on Long's Peak. The Trail is very well signed and easy to follow. Allow 4 to 6 hours for the approach, it can be done faster depending on the condition of both climber and trail. Just before you get to Chasm Lake you will enjoy views of the Diamond above and Mt. Meeker Basin to the left, Southwest. The most noticable feature of Mt. Meeker will be a pinnacle known as The Flying Buttress. There is a gully to either side of the Buttress with the one on the left being the start for Dreamweaver. Hike over scree and snow towards the large snowfield on the left of Flying Buttress and ascend the 600 feet of snow to the base of the climb.

Route Description

The technical climb begins at the top of the snow field where the gully narrows at a rock band. You will want to rope here and begin the climb. If the route is in you will find a beautiful ribbon of ice in the gully. As you climb through this steep narrow section the gully will open a bit only to narrow again before arriving at a bench near the top of the Flying Buttress. Descent is possible from here down the gully to the west with a combination of rappels and scrambling, however both the crux and best climbing are yet to come. From the Bench continue up the shoulder wide gully to the next narrow section which most climbers consider the crux. A small chockstone in a chimney causes the ice to steepen. There may be a fixed pin available in this area depending on ice coverage. Climb through this section on to yet another narrow steep section out onto the boulder,scree field near Meekers summit.

From here you begin your descent by way of either the summit of Long's Peak or the Loft which is the saddle between Long's and Meeker. DO NOT follow your first instinct and head directly to the Loft for descent. It looks easy but consist of very slick, exposed slabs. Instead continue to the summit of Meeker by the easiest path and follow the ridge proper down to the Loft. From the Loft, skirt the snow field on the right, south and find a 3rd class ledge that allows you to avoid the steep middle section of the Loft proper. This leads back to the Meeker/Long's Basin where you began your climb.

Essential Gear

Crampons, Two ice tools, Helmet, 60m rope, 3-4 ice screws, set of stoppers, maybe a few hand sized Cams, a few pins in case emergency rappels are needed due to weather.

Miscellaneous Info

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