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The South Face
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The South Face 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.75000°N / 119.56°W

Route Type: big wall

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: V, 5.8 - 5.10, C1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Jun 2, 2003 / Jun 3, 2003

Object ID: 158138

Hits: 1180 

Page Score: 86.23% - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Hike east from the Ahwahnee Hotel parking lot, then north and up to the base of the Column.

Route Description


This is the most popular, and one of the easiest big walls in Yosemite Valley. My 1975 Roper guide described it as " the most popular Grade V in the Valley " back then! Fairly easy and enjoyable climbing is why! 80% of this climb goes free at 5.10.

Hike up talus from Indian Caves area to the East Face of the Column. Head up and left to the highest ledges with trees under the Southeast corner of the Column. Steep cracks and face climbing ( 5.8, C1 or 5.10b ) lead up to Dinner ledge, half way up the Column. 5.6 leads to aid up, over and along the Kor Roof ( C1 ) to a belay. Another aid pitch ( C1+ ) including a pendulum left to an arch leads to a stance. five mixed pitches ( 5.8, C1, 5.9 or C1, 5.8, C1 or 5.9 and 5.8, C1 or 5.10a ) lead to a decomposed gully and the top. 10 pitches total.

For descent info, see the North Dome Gully info page -North Dome Gully

Essential Gear


cams - 2 to 3 each .5" - 1", 2 each cam 1.25" - 4.5", 2 each nut, micro nuts.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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