See the GETTING THERE section of this page. Once you reach the Mount Massive trailhead for the standard route up the mountain, continue up the road, which becomes an easy 4WD route to where the road crosses Halfmoon Creek. Just before the creek is the trailhead for th North Halfmoon Creek drainage. Park here. A trail register is located at the north end of this area.

Route Description

Hike north and then west along North Halfmoon creek on a good trail 1.4 miles, crossing several streams along the way. At the north end of a clearing is a large cairn. Failure to pay attention to this landmark will cause you to miss the route. Turn right at the cairn, following a thin climber's trail north. The trail climbs rapidly through a cliff band (Class 2). Water may be running down this section of the trail. Soil and rocks will be loose through this moderately exposed section.

Once above the rocks, the trail climbs directly and relentlessly northward up the steep tundra slopes of Mount Massive. Please stay on the trail when you can to prevent further impact on the fragile tundra. At 13,200 feet, the scant trail leads up a draw and out of the drainage toward rock outcroppings above. Stay to the right of these rocky slopes on south facing tundra that is littered with rocks. You continue to climb rapidly to the ridge, where exciting views off of cliffs down grottos await you. Scramble up onto the ridge (Class 2) and follow it northward to the summit.

You can descend the route you climbed, but it would be murder on your feet and knees, not to mention increase wear on the mountain. If you have time and energy, proceed north from the summit along the domed summit ridge. Drop over a precarious jumble of rock to a point in the ridge marked with orange scree, at 14,200 feet, mile 3.3.

Descend southwest down this slope. A scree descent is nice, but an early season outing may provide a glorious glissade into this great mountain amphtheater. As you exit the amphitheater and reach tundra, stay high and east of North Halfmoon Creek to avoid marshes and bogs below. You'll come to land's end above some cliffs that overlook the valley at approximately 12,280 feet. The trail will be visible below. Drop down from this perch due northwest briefly down a tundra and rock ramp, then angle south once again to intercept the trail below the cliffs at about 12,100 feet. Minor bushwacking is required through this section.

Follow the trail back to your vehicle, completing your loop at the large cairn at mile 5.7.

A variation is the descent of the West Couloir route from the summit. This goes well, but expect larger rocks littered along the route. If a rapid descent is desired, this is a good route to take.

Be sure to check out the pictures on this page, as they illustrate the conditions encountered on this route, particularly persistent spring snow.

MILEAGES
Cairn at West Slopes Route 1.4 miles
Climb through cliff band 1.5 miles
Gain ridge 2.7 miles
Summit 3.0 miles
Descent into amphitheater 3.3 miles
"Land's End" 4.6 miles
Cairn at West Slopes Route 5.7 miles
Trailhead 7.0 miles

Additional Photos

Essential Gear

SUMMER AND FALL: Standard hiking gear will do. A 4WD vehicle is a good idea for the road beyond the Mount Massive Trailhead. At the least, the vehicle needs good clearance.

SPRING: Winter gear recommended, including an ice axe. Crampons and full compliment of winter gear and rope is recommended for early spring. Access to the trailhead with a vehicle is unlikely, adding to your walking distance.

WINTER: While the route can be climbed in winter, it is not recommended. Massive's entire west face is ideal for avalanche activity. Vast slopes at the optimal angle, constantly loaded and shifted by prevailing west winds that have no anchors whatsoever place the entire route in potential avalanche paths.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images



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