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North Face via Rock of Ages Col

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El Diente/Mount Wilson Traverse

North Face via Rock of Ages Col

Kilpacker Basin

North Face via Rock of Ages Col

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.83920°N / 107.9908°W

Route Type: snow and ridge scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: class 3

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- 3 Votes

Page By: nickd

Created/Edited: Jul 4, 2003 / Sep 17, 2003

Object ID: 158264

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Table of Contents

Route Description

Miscellaneous Info

Approach

take silverpick basin to rock of ages col (13,000 ft.) make descending/ascending traverse left from col under gladstone. cross navajo "glacier", then traverse ridges to upper north-face snow field directly under summit.

Route Description

this is generally dawson's (vol 2) north face route. ascend snow (to 50 degrees) to small saddle just left of summit. follow summit ridge to/from summit (4th class) - or descend to east 100' for 3rd class option.

descend on snow to upper navajo basin, then back to rock of ages col by obvious trail. photos reflect conditions on 7-3-03 - less than average snow year, but still could glissade the entire 2000' from summit to upper navajo basin.

instead of traverse along east end of upper navajo basin on approach (under gladstone), one could alternatively descend from rock of ages col directly to upper navajo basin via trail and follow lower descent route snow to upper snow field. traverse is worthwhile (time and energy) if there is a reasonable amount of snow.

Essential Gear

crampons and ice ax for ascent. cautious people trying to stay to exact summit ridge would appreciate a belay.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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