East Ridge

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Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.98810°N / 107.8231°W

Route Type: Scramble/technical climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Low 5th class

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Page By: nickd

Created/Edited: Jul 11, 2003 / Jul 12, 2003

Object ID: 158302

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Table of Contents

Approach

As per most guidebook descriptions of Dallas from the Telluride side: Take water plant access road north across from texaco (drive or walk depending on gate) to deep creek trail to mill creek trail. Approx. 1/4 mile after mill creek trail descends into mill creek basin - after crossing stream and when full face of dallas pk. is in view (approx. 11,200') - start upward traverse toward col 12,974' - clearly visible via light color scree. This col can also be approached from blue lakes (c.f. rosborough san juan climbing guide description).

Route Description

Ascent: from 12,974' col follow ridge west toward 13,300' col just below southeast face. Generally stay to south of east ridge - cross much scree-covered downsloping rock (3rd class). At 13,300' col, traverse left, ascend rock (3rd/4th class) to climber's right of snow/couloir in middle of face. When below summit block, ascend snow/rock to hidden exit between blocks , or 5th class chimney 30' to right of snow. Descend shallow ramp on north face (exposure), to obvious weakness in headwall - right above large, semi-detached block. Climb (low 5th class) 100' to summit ridge, walk east to summit .

Descent: Take packs, etc. to summit to allow descent via 2 rappels from east end of summit (slings in place). Rappel of ascent route is much less direct. Return to 13,300' col - then descend steep scree couloir to lower cliff band (cairns) - then traverse above cliff band (staying high as possible to avoid blind chutes) to large rib lower on east face. Traverse grass/scree back to mill creek trail.

Round trip - 11 hours (4 people).

Essential Gear

Helmets, 60m rope, small rack (mid size cams), 2 - 20' sling/light ropes for rappel anchors. ice axe. Add crampons if significant snow is visible on south side.

Miscellaneous Info

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