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The Dihedral (Chimney Variation)

Great Expectations

Nike Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Oklahoma, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.72160°N / 98.7238°W

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb (Traditional)

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.7

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Page By: Alan Ellis

Created/Edited: Aug 23, 2003 / Jun 29, 2005

Object ID: 158596

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Table of Contents

Approach

From the parking lot, hike to the north on a signed trail. Follow the creek NW for about 1/2 mile until reaching a waterfall. Cross the creek to the left just before the waterfall and scramble up a hill. Follow the trail (north) until reaching a house-size boulder. Go right (east) from the boulder and follow the trail until reaching a cave-like formation under a large boulder. Crawl through cave exiting left and the trail will resume on the other side. A faint climbers trail will gradually turn into a scramble for the last 100 ft. Belay from ledge with a tree just below the route. This approach takes 45 min - 1 hr and is about 1.5 miles.

Route Description

This is a fun lead. The first 40 feet of RX may seem intimidating, but the rock is very grippy (feet) and solid.

From the belay ledge/tree, move right about 40 feet directly under the slab to the right of The Dihedral. Move up 40 ft using friction and little nubbins. This first 40 ft is RX with no protection opportunities. The closer to the left (near the dihedral) you go, the harder it is (5.8). So stay to the right to if you want to keep it at 5.7 or less. After 40 ft, you'll reach a horizontal crack which will take a micro-cam or nut. (In the photo below, the horizontal crack is where the "4" is in the picture). From there, follow the crack (5.6) along the edge of the dihedral for 125 ft until reaching a set of rap anchors. You can continue via class 4 scrambling to the top or rap 165 ft. to the start.
UPDATE 6-29-05: Supposedly, there are new bolts on the lower part of Nike Route which prevents the RX. I have not confirmed this new info.

Nike Route: Route #4 (Click photo to enlarge)

Essential Gear

Two 60 meter ropes. Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers. A few runners.

Miscellaneous Info

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