| Redcloud-Sunshine Route Emporium Route |
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| Redcloud-Sunshine Route Emporium   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.94080°N / 107.4214°W Route Type: Hike Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 2
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Sep 11, 2003 / Sep 7, 2007 Object ID: 158778 Hits: 1779 Loading... Page Score: 86.78% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewWelcome to the Redcloud-Sunshine Route Emporium. This special route page has been designed with the circumstances and geography of these two fourteeners in mind. The Route Emporium is in two sections, each featured from two respective approaches to these lofty San Juan peaks. Other routes not covered in this emporium are available in many popular guidebooks.
This page covers the standard route if you wish to climb Redcloud Peak first. It also refers to the Northwest Face route on Sunshine Peak, should you decide to climb Sunshine first (a much more interesting alternative).
If you plan on climbing Redcloud alone or first, read this page. If you plan on climbing Sunshine alone or first, read this page.
Approach & MapsSee the GETTING THERE section on the Redcloud MAIN PAGE.
Route Options Overview Map |
Recommended optional Ascent/Descent for Sunshine Peak |
Silver Creek & Descent Options DescriptionsSILVER CREEK STANDARD ROUTE Class 2
From the trailhead, proceed up the trail northeast into a basin northeast of Redcloud Peak. Follow this trail high into the basin and onto Redcloud Peak’s northeast ridge, which is followed another half mile to the summit.
Silver Creek Basin |
SP member Lower Marmot reports the following:
"There has been a fairly significant alteration in the Silver Creek ascent since I climbed it in June.
Rather than following the ridge fairly directly to the summit from the saddle at 13,100 feet, the route now takes some very long switchbacks that cut into the northeast face of Redcloud. The alteration makes for much less scree and slipping, and I found it to be somewhat easier than before."
Connecting Ridge to Sunshine Peak |
If you are also climbing Sunshine Peak, follow the well worn trail to that mountain due south. Return the same route or execute one of the following descent routes.
DESCENT OPTIONS
If a shorter descent option is desired back to the Silver Creek trailhead, two possibilities are available.
The FIRST AND BEST OPTION descends the northwest face of Sunshine Peak via a cairned route. Descent through a cliff band (brief Class 3) is required. Please refer to this route option and consider it if your party is capable of Class 3 climbing and if conditions and weather allow. This will make for a nice loop day as well. This route also makes for a nice climbing route and loop option by climbing Sunshine first.
Descent from Sunshine's Northwest Face |
The SECOND OPTION descends from the saddle between Sunshine Peak and Redcloud, from a location where a toppled sign reads “Dangerous Cliffs Below-Do Not Descend.” Evidence of use trails worn into the steep west facing talus slopes can be seen to the north. These trails may not lead in the optimal direction for a trouble free descent, but they give you a good idea of what you need to do. Stay high as you traverse northwest across this slope to avoid cliffs and rough terrain below. These trails may fade as you begin your descent, aiming and angling toward the tundra below in the south fork drainage of Silver Creek. An eventual gully crossing may be required if you elect not to drop straight down the slope after bypassing any difficulties below. Once on the tundra, a use trail will lead you back down to the main Silver Creek trail, staying east of the stream.
Another OPTION also starts from south of the toppled sign but angles back to the south into the rocky basin northwest of Sunshine Peak. As you descend from Sunshine, look down upon the slopes beneath the saddle from which you will descend. You’ll see a worn area that looks like fine gravel and could possibly be scree and make for a semi-pleasant and quick descent or bail route that drops below and above cliffs and spires. It is likely people have climbed up this route in the past, but it looks steep and loose for such an endeavor and probably is more trouble than it’s worth. A descent down this route might make sense in bad weather, though. Note the route will deposit you on a rock glacier in the basin below. A sharp eye will identify a use trail traversing over this rock glacier. After your initial descent down the loose slope, follow this trail, which presumably leads you to more civil terrain and a use trail in the tundra below, which takes you back to the main trail.
Descent options from Redcloud-Sunshine saddle |
These descent options are fast and efficient, but loose San Juan rock is the price. Experience in route finding and “San Juan scree and talus skiing” are highly recommended, or at least descend these routes with someone who has done them before.
Descent option from Redcloud-Sunshine saddle |
The above descent options are recommended for descents only. Ascents up these routes have been done, but at great physical expenditure. You're better off ascending the recently established FIRST OPTION.
Winter ascents of these routes are not recommended due to immediate avalanche danger. Spring climbs (May & June) might make for quick ascents of either mountain.
DISTANCES & GAIN
8 miles (Redcloud only)
11 miles (with Sunshine, standard route ascent & descent)
9 miles (with Sunshine via optional descent route)
GAIN: 3650 feet gain (Redcloud only), 4145 feet (with Sunshine)
SHUTTLE OPTION
This option is designed with climbing both Redcloud and Sunshine in a traverse that does not require a return to your starting point. Two vehicles are required.
Park one vehicle at the Mill Creek Campground. Proceed up to the Silver Creek Trailhead. An ascent of Redcloud can be executed via the Silver Creek trail, followed by a traverse over to Sunshine. Descend Sunshine’s east ridge via the Mill Creek trail option, seen here. Upon arrival at Mill Creek, a drive back up the road to retrieve the other vehicle is necessary. A better version of this option can be found here.
Essential GearHigh topped hiking boots with good ankle support and tread are a must for these mountains, particularly if you plan on using one of the optional descent routes.
Water is non-existent on these routes unless you are near the bottom of the Silver Creek drainages. Climbing both peaks is a long day from any direction, so plenty of water is required.
The long day also exposes you to the elements for an extended period. Be prepared for horrendous San Juan weather when attempting these mountains.
Winter gear, including snow shoes or skis are required for spring climbs of these mountains.
Images
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San Juan Range
