| Normal South Approaches Route |
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| Normal South Approaches   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Kamiske Alpe (Alps of Kamnik), Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.35890°N / 14.52580°E Route Type: Mountaineering Season: Summer, Fall Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Walk-up, medium hard ferrata
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| Page By: Vid Pogachnik Created/Edited: Sep 26, 2003 / Dec 24, 2006 Object ID: 158912 Hits: 836 Loading... Page Score: 86.15% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Rating the Tour (by Hiking Standards)
The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.
0. General. From 900m to 2540m, some ups and downs below the south face of Grintovec. Predominantly good marked paths, on some places secured with pegs and steel ropes. Paths also require a lot of care as the terrain is crumply and not all exposed places are secured. Gear: Good shoes and poles.
Milestones of the route: Suhadolnik farm, 901m - On top of Taska valley step, 1425m - Dolci (valley), 1800m - Kocna, 2540m.
1. Effort. Cca 1670m of altitude, 5 hours.
2. Power. 2 - easy.
3. Psyche. 4 - hard (only one detail below the SE ridge).
4. Orientation. 2 - easy.ApproachDriving up the Kokra valley you turn right at the end of Kokra village (scattered houses) and drive up the narrow road to Suhadolnik farm (902m). You can park there freely, but we usually leave some small money in the box. Otherwise a bigger parking place is on the last road curve below the farm.
Route DescriptionFrom Suhadolnik farm you proceed eastwards by a marked path which soon cuts through woods and reaches the forrest road again on the beginning of Suhi dol meadow, 1000m. Here it is possible to go directly northwards and reach bivouac by an easy climb, but we shall proceed by the marked path. This goes again in the woods, proceeds eastwards and climbs the rocky barrier, named Taska on its right side. The old path over Taska goes more directly and is far more beautiful, but is now more and more abandoned (pegs and ropes in bad condition). Arriving over Taska barrier the path reaches the bottom of a shallow valley, where our path to Kocna deters left (towards north), while the usual path to Kokrsko sedlo (saddle) and Cojzova koca (hut) proceeds eastwards. Till here 1h 30min.
From the crossroads we can only hardly follow the marked path. Not many people go here and it also soon becomes narrow and exposed. Steep rocks of Grintovec south slopes rise above the path and it goes up and down untill reaching the bottom part of a broad valley between Grintovec and Kocna (Dolci). After a few hundred meters a good marked path descending from Grintovec roof joins from the right. We proceed towards north-west and soon approach a rocky south ridge of Kocna. Here the path branches again.
The left variant uses a narrow ravine and ascends on the shoulder in Kocna south ridge, where the bivouac stands (1952m). From there the marked path ascends northwards by scree, then crosses it in the west direction, enters easy rocks (secured with ropes and pegs) and in easy climb reaches the summit of Kokrska Kocna (2520m). The main summit of Jezerska Kocna is still some 300m towards the NE. The marked path goes by the ridge or little below it (secured) and reaches the main summit in good 15 minutes. From Suhadolnik farm cca 5 hours.
The other variant doesn't touch the bivouac. It proceeds northwards by broad Dolci valley and climbs on its end on the Dolska skrbina (notch), 2270m. Here we are first time impressed with the north walls shadows. Now the east ridge of Kocna is awaiting us. After few minutes the north approach (Kremzar Route) joins us. Now only one route leads to the summit of Kocna.
The 'belly' below the SE ridge
At first glance the huge, rounded walls will not allow us any passage. But on the most tricky part a shallow ledge leads us under rounded 'bellys'. Most of mountaineers here push their rucksacks in front of them, also if you go more on the outer side, the passage is not easy. But difficulties are soon over and a comfortable ledge leads us further towards the West. Only at the end we climb a little, so reaching the highest point. From Suhadolnik farm cca 5 hours.Essential GearGood shoes.
On the summit of Kocna take care of lightning. Red rocks indicate quantities of iron, which is very dangerous in bad weather.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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