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| Southeast Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 47.56520°N / 121.1798°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: Class 3
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: rpc Created/Edited: Sep 30, 2003 / Sep 30, 2003 Object ID: 158954 Hits: 2293 Loading... Page Score: 86.24% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Follow the directions listed under Hyas Creek Glacier Headwall Route to get to Peggy's Pond.
Route Description
The Southeast Ridge of Mount Daniel starts right at Peggy's Pond. It is not the ridge you see slightly north of the pond - that's the east ridge. The southeast ridge does not even look like a ridge when viewed from Peggy's Pond - it is the "hill" lying DIRECTLY east of the Pond. Multiple "social" or climbers' trails start at or near Peggy's Pond and converge together atop of the ridge a few hundred feet above the pond. Generally, the north (right when viewed from the Pond) side of the ridge provides a more gentle start. Once atop the ridge, the climbers' trail is well defined - if it vanishes temporarily in a boulder field, just look for numerious cairns. Follow the ridge eastward passing Circle Lake far below on your left and the permanent snowfield on your right below. The ridge gradually narrows as you climb. Few class 3 sections are interspersed with mostly class 2 trail hiking. The highpoint you see ahead of you and to the right is the East Summit of Mt. Daniel.
Follow the ridge as it turns north toward the East Summit. At this point, the climb steepens. You want to stay to the left of the ridge crest in a dirty gully. After moving past a few minor gendarmes (class 3 sections), you'll reach a nondistinct low point at the foot of the East Summit (there's a medium sized cairn). From here you should move left off the ridge and begin traversing the scree below (southwest of) the East Summit maintaining constant elevation. The trail is very faint when you first leave the ridge but becomes very clear once directly below the East Summit.
Follow the climbers' trail to the saddle beneath East Summit and a ridge protruding from the Middle Summit. Climb left up scree (approx. 200 feet) to reach the top of this ridge (opposite to East Peak). Once at the top, Middle Summit is directly to your north and the West Summit is the highpoint to your left (northwest). Head for the Middle Summit and turn left below it following the ridge top (above Lynch Glacier) toward the West Summit. The true summit is atop the tallest of the rock spires (class 3).
Essential Gear
No special gear required late season (after mid to late August). Earlier ascents might require ice ax and crampons.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Washington 2000-ft Prominence Peaks
