Approach
Normal approach to West Flank. Fly to Islamabad. Take jeeps to Gilgit. From there continue to Bunar.
Route Description
This is the "normal" route to the summit today. It was first climbed in 1962 by Kinshofer, Mannhardt and Low. It starts up a very steep couloir on the west flank of the mountain. This couloir is often mixed snow and ice. At 5900m (19,400 feet) there is a 60m rock step to the Kinshofer Icefield. From the top of the Kinshofer Icefield, the route traverses right to the Bazhin Basin. From the Basin Gap, there are two options. Traverse the Basin below the summit ridge then vertical to the main summit or gain the ridge at the Gap, and traverse the ridge over the north shoulder. There is a total of just over 4000m of vertical ascent in this route.
Essential Gear
Full high altitude expedition gear.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
|
Pakistan's Himalaya
