FROM MILAN BY CAR: statal route "Vallassina" number 36 to Lecco and then to Colico (north side Como lake) and then Stelvio statal route to Morbegno, Sondrio, Tirano and then to Bormio (three hours). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

FROM MILAN BY TRAIN AND BUS: take a train in the Milan Central station destination Tirano and then a bus to Santa Caterina (4 hours).

FROM SUDTIROL BY CAR THROUGH STELVIO PASS: from Bozen (Alto Adige on the highway between Innsbruck and Verona) to Merano by main route and the by local route through Venosta Valley follow the signals to Stelvio mountain pass (2700 meters, the highest mountain pass reaching by car, open only in the summer period). From here to Bormio (3 hours and half from Bozen, Stelvio pass requires 44 bends to go up and 15 to go down). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

FROM SAINT MORITZ (CH) BY CAR: go to Pontresina and then follow the signals to Bernina pass. Turn left when you look the indication to Livigno (I) through Forcola pass (open only in summer period) and then from Livigno through Foscagno pass (2200 meters, open all the year) to Bormio (3 hours). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

FROM SANTA MARIA (MUNSTERTAL - CH) BY CAR: follow the signals to Giogo di Santa Maria (Pab Umbrail) on the border between Switzerland and Italy and then to Bormio (1 hour and half, border near Stelvio pass, open only in the summer period). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

FROM GERMANY OR AUSTRIA BY CAR: on highways via either Innsbruck or Bregenz to Landeck and then following Staatsstra�e S 13 to the italian border at the Reschenpass / Passo di Resia . There the Vinschgau / Val Venosta valley starts that represents the northern border of Ortles-Cevedale group. At Prad the Trafoi valley starts that leads either to Sulden / Solda or via Stilfser Joch / Passo di Stelvia to Bormio. From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

FROM PONTE DI LEGNO: through Gavia pass, dangerous route (very small) open only in the summer period. From Santa Caterina Valfurva to the Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.

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Route Description

From the refuge 'Ghiacciaio (glacier) ai Forni' (2.170 m.) walking trough an easy path in one hour and half to refuge Pizzini Frattola (2700m. - jeep service also available) and then up to refuge Casati (3200 meters).

Then on an easy ice route to the peak (three hours from Casati hutte).

During the climbing, you will see at your left zufall-spitze, at yor right Cevedale. Nice possibility the cross to Palon de la Mare, coming back by refuge Branca Martinelli.

Be carefull to the terminal crevasse!

Essential Gear

Crampons, Ice Axe, Rope

Miscellaneous Info

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