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| Southwest Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.86030°N / 107.9842°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 3
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Oct 24, 2003 / Jun 19, 2008 Object ID: 159168 Hits: 2545 Loading... Page Score: 90.71% - 29 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewALERT! The Silver Pick Basin Access to the Southwest Ridge is not yet officially open to the public. Public easement work and other details securing the access to the Rock of Ages saddle needs to be completed, and until then, access is not allowed or considered legal. Until then, best options for access are Bilk Basin or Navajo Basin.
Climbing Wilson Peak's Southwest Ridge Route |
Although rated Class 3, this route is a loose and exposed affair. People hoping to climb Wilson Peak for the first time should climb other San Juan peaks of lesser difficulty before attempting. Good ones to do in preparation are Golden Horn, Mount Sneffels, Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn.
Steep snow often lingers on the route well into the summer, and it is often hard snow or ice by late July. Ice axe, crampons and the knowledge to use them are highly recommended.
Folks often underestimate Wilson Peak, being the easiest of the San Miguel 14ers to claim, but the mountain is no stranger to rescues, death and unfortunate incidents. Go informed and prepared, with plenty of experience to back you up and make your climb of this potentially dangerous mountain a pleasant one!
Bilk Basin Flowers below Gladstone Peak |
The Kilpacker and Bilk Basin approaches to Wilson Peak's standard route are longer than the popular and still closed Silver Pick Basin, but they are much more beautiful. If you have time to invest, consider these options, certainly worthy of your time and investigation.
Special thanks to Alan Ellis and Rex Headd for additional route illustration photos!
Bilk Basin Purple Paradise |
Route Description
Wilson Peak from Silver Pick by RyanS |
APPROACH FROM SILVER PICK BASIN DO NOT UTILIZE THIS APPROACH UNTIL NOTICE IS POSTED HERE.
From the parking area, follow the Silver Pick road into the Silver Pick Basin. There are several shortcuts that may be apparent, but also keep in mind the rock in this area is loose and hazardous, and you're better off on the road, and your progress will be more expedient.
Gain the Rock of Ages saddle to the right of the Southwest Ridge, from which you will see the north slopes of Mount Wilson and El Diente across the barren expanse of Navajo Basin.
Contour due south-southeast, perhaps on a miner's trail to the next higher saddle, perched on the ridge leading south to pointed Gladstone Peak.
Wilson Peak & Navajo Basin from Mount Wilson, by theplugger |
APPROACH FROM NAVAJO BASIN
From Navajo Lake, ascend directly eastward up the barren and rocky wasteland of Navajo Basin, perhaps on a use trail, angling gradually left, aiming for the saddle just to the right of the triangular buttress of Wilson Peak's southwest ridge. A climber's trail may aid your progress.
APPROACH FROM BILK BASIN
From Bilk Basin, climb northwest toward the black pyramid of Wilson Peak's triangular summit cone over beautiful tundra. In the upper reaches of the basin, a faint mining road may aid your progress in spots.
Above a lovely marsh and tarn to the west, a convenient climber's trail can be intercepted that will expedite your ascent. Another route below mine tailings through a sea of talus directy beneath the summit cone is also possible, but slower due to loose terrain (although snow may allow quick passage as well).
In the highest reaches of the basin is a miner's cabin, and above it to the west is the small saddle. Gain the saddle first unless you prefer dealing with hazardous loose slopes. If there is snow present, your ascent is much easier providing you have at least an ice axe for the ascent up the southeast slopes.
 Climber's Trail on Loose Talus
SOUTHWEST RIDGE ASCENT
From the saddle, contour northeast, losing just a bit of altitude, across very loose slopes. Steep snow is often present and an ice axe at the minimum is recommended, with crampons being a definite plus to speed your progress and increase your safety. Above any present snow, initial slopes will be treacherously loose, but you'll soon encounter a climber's trail that is surprisingly stable as it climbs and contours the southeast slopes of the mountain.
Regaining Ridge on Descent |
The well worn trail leads to a flat area on the ridge crest and then the fun begins! Scramble up a tower (Class 3) and then consider your future. Some folks stay on the exposed ridge (Class 3 and 4), most prefer to drop down about 80 feet along the north side of the ridge (Class 3), which allows for better progress. Heavy traffic areas are in evidence and less loose rock is encountered by following this course.
You then arrive at the crux, an ascent of about 100 feet (Class 3) up a crack about two feet wide, or along the right side of the crack. Check holds! Much of the terrain is solid and "cleaned off."
Above the crack, a solid rib of rock can be climbed directly (Class 3) or to the right on loose boulders (Class 2). Some light scrambling follows (Class 2), which leads to a stroll to the two top humps. Debris from an airplane crash still litters the summit.
VARIATION
Staying on the ridge crest is a time consuming and rickety affair (Class 4). Be sure to have great weather to attempt this feat, and have extensive experience in climbing loose San Juan terrain. Return the standard route on descent.
Return the same route.
FROM SILVER PICK BASIN TRAILHEAD
MILEAGE: 6.92 miles round trip
GAIN: 3,365 feet
FROM NAVAJO LAKE
MILEAGE: 6.64 miles round trip (19 miles round trip from Kilpacker trailhead)
GAIN: 2,873 feet (4,932 feet from Kilpacker trailhead)
FROM LOWER BILK BASIN
MILEAGE: 5.54 miles round trip (13 miles round trip from Bilk Basin trailhead)
GAIN: 3,058 (4,735 feet from Bilk Basin trailhead)
All totals compiled with TOPO! 4.0 software.
Route Options Overview Map |
ROUTE ILLUSTRATION PHOTOS BY REX HEADD AND SUBMITTED BY ALAN ELLIS
Essential GearStandard dayhike gear will do as a bare minimum. The following are highly recommended.
A map, compass and GPS unit, in case you are caught in bad weather (common for these mountains) and your visibility is impaired. Plot your route and retrace your steps.
Ice axe and crampons are required for climbs that run as late as July, and are recommended during August as any lingering snow will be hard ice. Gloves are a must for any snow encountered, along with hat and sunscreen.
A helmet is highly recommended for the final ridge scrambles.
Hiking boots with good tread are a must.
Prior experience on other San Juan peaks will make your climb of Wilson Peak a very enjoyable one!
Images
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San Juan Range
