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| North Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 39.72900°N / 105.904°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 3
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Oct 27, 2003 / Sep 7, 2008 Object ID: 159196 Hits: 1333 Loading... Page Score: 86.04% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewDepending on how the approach is executed, this could be the shortest and most expedient way to climb Pettingell. Walking the narrow jeep road makes for a full day and 8+ miles round trip, and from the few available points along the road, considerably less. If you are able to reach the end of the road in your vehicle, total round trip mileage is only 3.2 miles. See the figures below for specific information concerning distances and elevation gain.
This is a Class 3 climb with considerable exposure. It’s a good route to expand one’s climbing skills under the guidance of an experienced climber. Without guidance, this is still a relatively safe undertaking with good weather conditions and judicious route finding. Beginners will come away with new confidence after executing this rewarding route.
The best time to execute this route would be late August through early October, when conditions on the 4WD access road are likely at their driest. Do not attempt the road any further should you encounter wet or hazardous conditions. This narrow time window also increases the likelihood that the vast soggy basin below Pettingell is relatively dry and can be traversed without much difficulty. Snow and ice on the exposed ridge should also be nonexistent.
This route should not be attempted in winter conditions as the 4WD road traverses vast stretches of avalanche terrain. The Jones Pass road is not maintained in the winter, making for an unreasonably long approach. In winter conditions, the rating of the north ridge climb would increase dramatically, and the north facing slopes above it would be highly prone to avalanche. A winter attempt is not recommended. If you do attempt this route in winter conditions, take along all appropriate gear, plan on a bivy or camp and use your experienced judgment.
Getting ThereFrom Interstate 70, take the Exit to the town of Empire on Highway 40. Be sure to observe speed limits in Empire. From the I-70 exit to your exit to the Jones Pass road is 9.2 miles. As you approach the first hairpin turn that starts the climb up Berthoud Pass, look sharp for a left turn and take it. This service road briefly parallels the highway before going left due west up the Henderson Mine road. If you miss this left turn, there is another less safe opportunity for a left turn as you round this bend.
Follow this paved road to the entrance of the Henderson Mine. Turn right onto a county dirt road that is graciously maintained by the Henderson Mine. This is the Jones Pass road. Proceed past the left turn out for Butler Gulch and follow the road over Jones Pass. 4WD may be needed for traction, depending on conditions.
ApproachDrive over the pass and descend down the western slope of the Continental Divide. After the second switchback, a 4WD jeep road presents itself on the left. If you do not have 4WD and plan on walking the road, find a spot to park well out of the way either just before or after this turn out. See this photo.
WARNING: Considerable 4WD experience is highly recommended when driving this road. This narrow road sees little use. While not difficult, it has very few pull-out opportunities. This is also a leaning road in several spots. Do not attempt this road in wet or icy conditions.
Route DescriptionFrom the end of the 4WD road, do a gradual, contouring ascent up into the basin below Pettingell’s complex northeast cliffs, bypassing some tarns and marsh to the south. Depending on conditions, a higher contoured ascent may be necessary to avoid soggy stretches. Just northwest of the two large tarns in the basin is a knoll. Cross the creek between the two large tarns and contour up the slopes of this knoll, angling northwest to reach the base of the broad north ridge of Pettingell. If the weather is questionable, this is a good point to turn around.
Ascend very steep boulder strewn tundra in an arc angling to the right. There is much solid ground to climb on here. Boulders are littered in clusters and these areas are unstable, so traverse them with caution. A dislodged rock will tumble quite far on this steep tundra slope. Bearing to your right as you ascend in a steep arc will steer you through many good tundra options.
You will eventually be channeled to the top of the ridge. Follow this solid tundra and rock ridge, which continues to narrow (Class 2). The climbing difficulty increases gradually as you make progress. From a shallow scree saddle, the angle gets steep to ascend to the next level section (Class 2+). Exposure is present and may be considerable depending on route choices and your group’s experience.
A gendarme is then passed on the left and you reach a notch where the ridge rises in earnest and serious climbing can no longer be avoided. A short Class 4 option presents itself straight up a shallow gully and then solid rock. The recommended Class 3 option goes up the gully to the base of the rock, then angles to the right and ascends steep, solid terrain to the top of the ridge. A narrow and craggy catwalk follows. For beginners, the exposure on this stretch will encourage caution. Exposed Class 2+ options on the west side of this stretch are available just below the ridge top.
Beyond this exciting obstacle, the north ridge broadens into a slope. For expedient climbing on solid terrain, angle to the right to the ridge crest and follow the granite rib toward the top. Climb up through entertaining granite wedges, eventually reaching Class 1 terrain and amble up the slope to a brief Class 2 scramble just below the summit to the right.
Retrace your route for the return, even in bad weather. There are no bail options on the ridge, which is well guarded by cliffs on both sides and prevents a practical descent.
GAIN & MILEAGE
WALKING THE JEEP ROAD
GAIN: 2,390 feet
TOTAL: 7.6 miles
MILES
2 End of Jeep Road
2.6 Basin
2.8 Climb begins
3.4 Class 3 climbing
3.5 Ice split rocks on ridge crest
3.8 Summit
DRIVING THE JEEP ROAD
GAIN: 1,924 feet
TOTAL: 3.2 miles
.5 Basin
.75 Climb begins
1.3 Class 3 climbing
1.5 Ice split rocks on ridge crest
1.6 Summit
Distances and gain calculated using TOPO! software.
Essential GearStandard day hike gear will do. Be appropriately prepared-this is real back country!
Images
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Front Range (CO)
