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The Direct route
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The Direct route 

Page Type: Route

Location: GlenCoe, Scotland, Europe

Route Type: Rock climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: UIAA III+/V Diff

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Probemeister

Created/Edited: Nov 21, 2003 / Nov 21, 2003

Object ID: 159434

Hits: 1499 

Page Score: 51.14% - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Gain the C.I.C hut at the foot of the North Face cliffs by any number of approaches. Look at one of the many maps, for example the Ordanace Survey's 1:50,000 sheet 41. I recommend starting the approach from the new North Face car park at Torlundy as it is the easiest.

The route is located on the Douglas Boulder, which is the 200m buttress which forms the lowest tower on Tower Ridge. This route forms an excellent start to Tower Ridge. The route basically follows the chimney fault which splits the boulder from top to bottom. When viewed from the C.I.C hut the fault lies just to the left of a prominent smooth wall on the lower part of the boulder.


Route Description


Climb the slabs just to the right of the lower fault for 3 easy pitches to a good flat ledge where the cliff steepens, this ledge is just to the right of a (usually) wet chimney. Climb the chimney line or the slabs and cracks on it's immediate right for 3 or 4 pitches, this eventually eases to the summit of the boulder.

Abseil from the in situ slings and krab into Tower Gap

Essential Gear


4 long slings and screwgates, a rack of nuts, a couple of medium sized hexes and/or friends a rope and a helmet.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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