South Ridge

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Northeast Ridge/East Face

South Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.62280°N / 107.6208°W

Route Type: Scramble/Ridge run

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 4 (exposed)

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Page By: truchas

Created/Edited: Dec 6, 2003 / Dec 17, 2004

Object ID: 159552

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Table of Contents

Approach

The access to this route starts at Needleton, the first of two climber stops on the Durango and Silverton Narrow Guage Railroad. See their website for ticket and schedule information. Expect to pay at least $60 for the ticket. If you have never been on the train, it is well worth the ride.

The only other alternative to reaching Needleton is via the Purgatory Creek Trail. The trail starts at the Purgatory Campground 26 miles north of Durango on U.S. highway 550. It is an easy 10.5 mile hike mostly downhill.

From Needleton, hike approximately 5 miles into lower Chicago Basin. There will be a fork in the trail with one trail making a right turn, stay straight and do not turn right. Hike approximately 1/4 of a mile and you will find yourself directly below Mt. Eolus and some steep grassy slopes. The route begins here.

Route Description

NOTE OF CAUTION: By no means is this the easiest route up Mt. Eolus. This seldom climbed route is a serious undertaking with fall potential and is for experienced mountaineers only. Do not risk this route in questionable weather.

Hike straight up this very steep grassy slope making your way straight up to a ridge that starts at approximately point 12,969. From this point you will stay on this very airy and scary class 4 ridge. Some parties may want the benefit of a rope. There has been a fairly recent death on this route. Exercise extreme caution.

This ridge will dead end short of the summit. Scramble down and to the left into a notch which is the end of the East Couloir route. Scramble back up on the east or west side of the summit back up to the ridge, then scramble up to the summit.

Essential Gear

This is a very exposed ridge with plenty of exposure and fall potential. Some parties may want the security of rope and helmets are highly recommended. Do not attempt this route in wet or bad weather.