Anderson Glacier/Eel Glacier (route 1)

Route

Images (3)

Climber's Log (0)

Comments (0)

Additions & Corrections (0)

Contribute

Geography

Parents

Mount Anderson (East Peak)

Routes

Anderson Glacier/Eel Glacier (route 1)

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 47.72100°N / 123.33°W

Route Type: Glacier/Rock Scramble

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: 1

Loading...
Route Quality:
1
2
3
4
5
- 2 Votes

Page By: Alpendave

Created/Edited: Dec 11, 2003 / Feb 11, 2008

Object ID: 159586

Hits: 1597

Page Score: 42.76% - 2 Votes

Vote: Log in to vote

Table of Contents

Approach

Small tarn at Anderson Pass. Notice the greeting party on the right.

***Notice*** The Dosewallips Road is washed out 5.5 miles from the trailhead. Click on link or call 360-565-3131.

From the Dosewallips Campground at the end of the Dosewallips River Road (Muscott Flat), take the Dosewallips Trail which starts near the ranger station. At 1 1/2 miles, take the West Fork Dosewallips trail which comes in on the left and immediately cross the river on a bridge. At 2 1/2 miles, the trail crosses the river (now West Fork) again over a 100 foot high bridge over a box canyon. At 7 1/4 miles, the trail crosses the river a 3rd time and at 8 3/4 miles (3,627 feet) comes to Honeymoon Meadows where one can jump across the river for the fourth crossing. From here it follows the north side of the valley to Camp Siberia at 10 miles (good campsites) and Anderson Pass at 10 1/2 miles (4,464 feet). At Anderson Pass, take the Anderson Glacier Overlook Trail up another steep 3/4 mile to the moraine of the Anderson Glacier (limited camping).

My memory refreshed by:
100 Classic Hikes in Washington, by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning, pg 226-227 and
Olympic Mountains Trail Guide, by Robert Wood, pg 161 & 168.

Route Description

Important Note: The Anderson Glacier is very near extinction. To see the extent--not to mention, rapidity--of recent melting, refer to THIS THREAD.

Crossing the bergschrund of the Eel Glacier

From the moraine, ascend north accross the Anderson Glacier toward a narrow snow finger that leads straight up to a notch just west of the east peak. This notch is called Flypaper Pass. Camp here if you like to be battered by fierce winds. Refrain from camping here if that's not your style.

Looking up the Anderson Glacier. Follow the snow finger at its head to Flypaper Pass.

View of the Eel Glacier, showing the route from Flypaper Pass.

From Flypaper Pass drop down to the north on to the upper Eel Glacier. The bergschrund may present some difficulty in crossing late in the year. Descend about 200 feet (Climbers Guide to the Olympic Mountains 3rd Edition, pg 91)* around cliffs on the right and ascend easterly to the upper reaches of the glacier. Large crevasses here. Also, beware of hidden ones. Gain the ridge on snow and turn south toward the rock. At first glance it appears as though a fair amount of scrambling is ahead. However, once you reach the rock, the summit is only about 10 feet/ 3meters above.

*The latest edition, Olympic Mountains--A Climbing Guide, pg. 99-100.

The extent of the melting as of August 2005. Photo by YEM

Essential Gear

Ice Axe, Glacier Rope, Crampons, Snow Pickets, and Crevasse Rescue Gear.

Don't forget the 10 essentials either!

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.