Merlin Dome, "The Right Side"

Route

Merlin Dome, "The Right Side"

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.10920°N / 118.484°W

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.6

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Page By: Tom Kenney

Created/Edited: Jan 20, 2004 / May 12, 2007

Object ID: 159868

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Table of Contents

Approach

From Needlerock Creek (below The Needles and Voodoo Dome), drive up the road and around the ridge. Pass a huge gully and park at a turn-out on the right (downhill side) below Merlin Dome. Approach by scrambling up a loose gully on the right side of the slope below the dome's apron. Exit the gully going left to some oak trees on the right edge of the apron. There is an area of broken slabs that forms a vague left-facing book, then a smaller right-facing corner below a ledge with small pine trees. The start of The Right Side is in this right-facing corner.

Route Description

Climb the right-facing corner, and either continue up through an alcove up to the big ledge, or turn an overhang on it's right (slightly harder?). The first pitch ends on the ledge with trees. Though we attempted to locate the second pitch and continue the climb, we did not find an option within the 5.6 rating given in the Needles guidebook. Beware of red ants!

Essential Gear

Two 50m ropes, full range of Stoppers and Hexcentrics, and some medium cams (0.5" to 3.0"). 15 or 20 carabiners, 6 short runners, 4 to 6 longer slings. A large tree on the ledge has many rap slings.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.