This is the best ice climb of the Gran Paradiso group. The north-west wall is 600 m higth and can offer a good difficulty. The good access and the easy descent are the winner cards of this route. If you think that you can climb a beautiful mountain to his more difficult route, you cannot go to do it! The characteristic of the wall is two ice humps; the first is smaller than the second.

First ascension

North-west wall and left rock ridge: L. Bon, R. Chabot and A. Cretier in 11 june 1930
Complete North-west wall: C. Bertolone, F. Cappa e G. Giorda in 6 luglio 1958

Route Description

Climb the terminal crevasse and go up on the beautiful snow slide. Exceed the first hump, and the second terminal crevasse. The Chabot route after have climb the first hump, go to the left to the rock ridge, climb it and go up to the north-north-east ridge and than to the summit. Gradient max 50�.
The Bertolone route, called Diemberger too (he climbs this route only in 1961, but he�s more famous to Bertolone�), after the first hump go to the second and turn this on the left, between the seracs. This pitch is the crux. After the slope is less incline and arrive to the summit easily. Gradient max 55-60�.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons

Guidebooks

�Gran Paradiso� Guida dei Monti d�Italia E. Andreis, R. Chabod and M.C. Santi � Club Alpino Italiano, Touring Club Italiano 1980

�Gran Paradiso e Valli di Lanzo� Le cento pi� belle ascensioni. Gian Carlo Grassi � Ed. Zanichelli 1982