Approach
The north face may be approached from several directions:
1) Navajo Lake Trailhead to Navajo Basin
2) Silver Pick Trailhead to Navajo Basin (according to the latest information, this approach is now forbidden)
3) Low traverse from the north slopes of Mount Wilson
Route Description
There is more than one route up the broad, north face. It is a long, grueling climb no matter how you do it. If you can find a pleasant way up through all the crags, rubble, dead ends, and bowling alleys, you are a mountaineering genius. Here are three variations on the route:
1) Straight up the central couloir. This is the route recommended by Gerry Roach in his Colorado Fourteeners.
2) Stay on a rib between gullies. Advantages: you climb more rock instead of snow, and you are much less vulnerable to rocks that fly down the gullies with alarming frequency. My brother quickly adopted this route on his climb some years ago after witnessing a VW-sized boulder crash down the gully next to his, all the way into Navajo Basin.
3) If you traverse from the north slopes of Mount Wilson, choose an elevation between 13,000 and 13,500’ You may gain back some elevation in a series of gullies before reaching the prominent couloir a quarter mile east of the El Diente summit.
Whichever variation you choose (I chose #3), aim to join the ridge at a notch a quarter mile east of the summit. From that point traverse west on the south side of the ridge, past the Organ Pipes. Then cross back to the north side of the ridge to finish the climb.
Essential Gear
1) Ice ax. This route involves long stretches of steep snow, any time of year. In August 1995 (a snowy year, to be sure) at least 70% of my route up through the gullies was deep, and very steep snow.
2) Crampons may be helpful.
3) Helmet.
Images
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San Juan Range
