Overview
This is an important route for peakbaggers because it is the easiest way to climb Harvard and Columbia together. On this route you will almost completely circle Mt. Columbia. At 14 miles round trip, with lots of vertical gain, it will also wear you out. Start early.
Approach
Follow the South Slopes route to the summit of Mount Harvard. If you reach the Harvard summit in the afternoon, or if the weather turns stormy, consider returrning the way you came instead of continuing around to Columbia.
Route Description
Follow the ridge off of Harvard, to the east. Descend to the left of Point 13,516, then continue in a southeasterly direction to about 12,800'. There is no need to descend all the way to the creek. Rather, contour at about 12,800' to the south. If you find the going very difficult, you are too high. Lose more elevation to get off the ribs and gullies.
The first time I did this route we tried to contour at a higher elevation, maybe 13,300'. That was a mistake. We thought we would be smart and save ourselves some lost elevation, but instead we wasted a whole lot of time on the steeper slopes beneath the ridge. The result was a long and arduous climb, lost clothing, and a delayed arrival on the Columbia summit. It grew dark long before we got back to the car. Even with good route selection, this is a long, round trip hike.
Finish your climb on Columbia's gentle, north and east slopes.
After you reach the summit of Columbia, descend its west slopes to rejoin the trail at the bottom of Horn Fork Basin. Finding the trail down below is a little difficult, so plan your way while you are still high on the slopes where you can see everything. The route may be done in the opposite direction. However, that leaves you with a longer hike back to your vehicle with little opportunity to beat an early retreat.
Essential Gear
No special gear or equipment is required for a summer climb. Based on my experience, rain gear recommended. Natasha adds that low-cut gaiters for the lengthy hike down the scree on Columbia would lower one's frustration level.
Images
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Sawatch Range
