Approach as for Central Gully. From the base of central gully follow the base of the cliff up to the right until a line of icy chimneys is reached cutting back left into the cliff (not well visible from the approach). Another landmark is an icefall high on the right hand side of the cliff, this is the variation grade IV finish.

Route Description

Note, some of these pitches will bank out with heavy snow.

1: Climb the icy chimney which steepens at the top.
2: Continue up an easier ice pitch to a flat area below a steep chimney
3: Up the chimney or the groove on the right, easy snow leads into a more defined gully
4: Climb either the steep chimney line ahead or the icefall on the right.

Essential Gear

2 axes, crampons, helmet. A couple of ice screws, slings and a warthog.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.