Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.29490°N / 9.59620°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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TD- |
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Grade:
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V |
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Approach
Day1:Sarting from the Swiss village called Bondo you can follow the unpaved road (fee to be paid at road start) till its end where it starts the trail for the Sciora hutte and Sasc Foura' hutte. The former can be reached in 2:30 hours, the latter in about 1:30 h. There is not big difference starting the approach of the day after from one or the other.
Day2:
You might leave the refuge at 4 AM along the famous Vial trail. This trail connects the Sciora and the Sasc Foura' refuges traversing just under the magnificent north walls of Piz Cengalo and Piz Badile.
In about 2 hours you reach the base of the small glacier at the feet of the NE wall of Piz Badile. Here you wear the crampons and start to walk on the glacier slopes. In half an hour you reach the base of the NW pillar of Piz Cengalo where the Gaiser Lehmann route starts.
Route Description
The Gaiser Lehmann route can be divided in two parts: the first 200/300 meters are on broken and often wet rock. This is not the most beaufitul part of the ascent and it's here that the risks to loose the right way are very high.The second part (the remaining 600 meters) are on the best granite rock of the valley. Very compact slabs, never hard to be climbed, never athletic.
The Gaiser Lehmann route is a super classic climb, very complete due to the long approach part of which is on glacier. Be prepared to climb with very few pitons in place.
If you think to climb this route you definitely have to get a detailed topo. The picture on the left shows more or less the way. The one on the right can be clicked and shows the area more in detail.
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See other pictures here Climberland
Essential Gear
light crampons mandatory, ice tool not mandatory. Two ropes, a complete set of cams and stoppers. Some pitons are recommended too.And all the usual personal equipment for a rock route of almost 900 meters