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| Northeast Face   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 39.41350°N / 106.1259°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 2/Class 3 Snow
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: May 26, 2004 / Aug 18, 2005 Object ID: 161048 Hits: 881 Loading... Page Score: 86.2% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
FROM BRECKENRIDGE
Take Highway 9 south out of town 8 miles south to the signed Blue Lakes turn-out, County Road 850.
FROM POINTS SOUTH AND HIGHWAY 285
Take Highway 9 north from Fairplay, through Alma and over Hoosier Pass. Two miles north of the pass, turn left onto the Blue Lakes turn out, County Road 850.
Head west up 850, taking an almost immediate right turn onto McCullough Gulch road, County 851, which leads to the trailhead for the east ridge route up Quandary Peak. Continue beyond the parking for this trailhead to the end of the road and park at the gate.
Route Description
Follow the trail into McCullough Basin in a general westerly direction. The route winds around gorgeous streams and waterfalls and a number of lakes. If you end up off route due to the maze of trails, that's alright! Explore and enjoy this beautiful area, continuing westward. Elevation gain is gradual. Around 11,680' you'll enter a forest and conditions may be soggy depending on time of year and current rain patterns.
 
As you emerge from timberline, stay north of a larger, beautiful lake as you ascend the long basin. Stay to your right and the north side of the basin, angling northwest. At 12,200', head west again and look for a headwall adorned by a round patch of snow with some rocks and cliffs on its right side. Head toward this patch of snow, once again veering northwest past a lake at 12,695' on your right.
Get a good look at the snow patch, if it is present (it usually is). At 2.58 miles, this is the crux of this route. Later in the season, this patch, particularly the lower section, is solid ice just under the surface. Test this snow before deciding on how to attack this crux section. In good conditions, a direct assault with crampons and ice axe will go. If the ice is hard or conditions are unfavorable for a direct assault, climb the snow patch on the right along the rocks. A moat may be present. SP member mconnell also stresses to avoid the gulleys that bisect the cliffs to the left of the snowfield unless they are full of snow. They are steep, extremely loose, and very dangerous. As you climb, the angle of the slope relents. After a heavy winter, this patch may extend well beyond your visible horizon to level territory above, but the actual climb is about 400 feet.
Above this snow climb, angle southwest toward the gentle northeast slopes of Atlantic Peak. A large snowfield usually persists on this face well into summer. Depending on conditions, you may climb it directly or go around either side. Angling further west to the saddle north of the mountain and taking the ridge to the summit will traverse more stable terrain. Pacific Peak, t the north, can be climbed from this saddle as well (Class 2).
The final pitch is barely Class 2 climbing on stable talus and boulders. The summit is spacious and often covered in snow.
Return the same route.
GAIN: 2709 feet.
DISTANCE: 6.42 miles round trip (seems longer).
SPRING: Class 3 snow
SUMMER: Class 2+ scrambling with snow present
Essential Gear
SUMMER & FALL
Expect muddy conditions in the lower sections of this route. Snow on the headwall may be present through the entire season. In addition to standard hiking gear, be sure to have gloves. Gators are recommended. If the winter was normal to heavy, bring an ice axe for the headwall. Do not ascend the snow directly. For a direct ascent of the snow, crampons and ice axe are essential. A safe ascent and descent via the moat on the right side may be feasible. Use your informed judgement.
WINTER & SPRING
Snow shoes or skis are mandatory. Ice axe, crampons and winter gear are essential for the crux headwall and beyond to Pacific Peak.
Do not attempt the crux section unless you are confident in the basic use of an ice axe and crampons. Do not attempt this climb without this gear unless (a) the snow is not present or (b) it can be circumvented safely by climbing around it (Class 2+). This patch is steep at the bottom and the run out will clobber you. An accidental slide down this snow without a self belay could be a real ugly ride.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Tenmile Range
