Length of climb
250m
Approach
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here the Black Spout is the lagest gully on the cliff slanting up rightwards. (286 degrees from 1st aid box)
Route Description
Follow the main branch until about half height where the gully splits in two. The left hand branch is steeper than the main one. The cornice can sometimes prove to be problematic.
Essential Gear
Normal winter kit including:
>Full waterproofs
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Compass
>Headtorch
>Survival / bivi bag
Essential Climbing gear
>Ice axe ( 1 is adequate but use 2 if you have them)
>Crampons
>Helmet (route is quite popular)
>Basic rock rack
>Slings
>Snow stake / deadman's belay
>Ice screws
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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