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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.33610°N / 9.68470°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA II to III - YDS 4 to 5.3 |
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Overview
Climbing on the North RidgeThis is a very pleasant shorter route in the area, ideal for a semi rest day or when the weather is deteriorating.
Combined with a descent of the South Ridge, it makes a great traverse of the peak with the descent ending very near the trail back to the hut.
Approach
From the Albigna hut follow the trail towards Casnil pass to 2 small ponds (tarns). Bear right into a stony valley and continue past two more ponds. Stay left of the left stream and climb the old moraine to the NE to the old glacier (hardly there any more). Keep left and climb up to the col between Bacun and Casnil (Fuorcla dal Riciöl) 3044m.Route Description
North (red) and South (yellow) Ridge RoutesAt Fuorcla dal Riciöl, turn onto Casnil's north ridge, which is snow/scree at first, then mixed climbing to a secondary summit. Continue along the ridge crest. Most obstacles can be turned to either side of the ridge or taken directly. The final piece to the summit is taken directly.
upper North RidgeEssential Gear
Rope and a small rack. Ice axe and crampons, depending on snow conditions and time of year.Descent
View up the South RidgeThe easiest descent is via the South Ridge / SW Flank